Indra Jatra marks the end of the monsoon and gives thanks to Indra, the Vedic god of rain. It opens with the raising of the yosin, a tall wooden pole brought from the forest and set upright in front of Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu Durbar Square. For the following days, images of Akash Bhairav are displayed across the old town, the great mask of Seto Bhairav at Hanuman Dhoka is uncovered, and at certain hours rice beer flows from a pipe in its mouth to a crowd hoping to catch a sip.
The festival's most watched moment is Kumari Jatra, when the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as a living goddess, leaves her house on Durbar Square and is drawn through the old city in a wooden chariot, followed by chariots of Ganesh and Bhairav. Masked dancers perform in the square in the evenings: the red-faced Lakhey demon, Pulukisi the elephant, and the Dasavatar dances of Vishnu's ten forms. The pole is lowered on the final day.
For visitors, Indra Jatra is a rare chance to see Newar Kathmandu at full volume, but it falls at the tail of the monsoon, so expect some rain and cloudy mountain views. Crowds in the square are dense on chariot days; we book a guide who knows where to stand and plan the rest of the trip for drier hills.
Tips
- Arrive at Kathmandu Durbar Square at least an hour before the Kumari chariot sets off to find a safe viewpoint.
- Carry a light rain jacket, as late-monsoon showers are common in September.
- Keep phones and wallets secure in the crowds around Hanuman Dhoka and Indra Chowk.
Questions travellers ask
When is Indra Jatra held?
Indra Jatra runs for eight days in the Newar lunar month of Yanla, which usually falls in late August or September. The Kumari chariot procession takes place on set days within the festival. Dates move each year with the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel. We can build a Kathmandu city break around the main chariot day.
Can tourists see the Kumari during Indra Jatra?
Yes. The Kumari Jatra chariot procession through Kathmandu's old town is the most public appearance of the living goddess each year. Thousands line the route from Basantapur through Indra Chowk and Asan. Photography of the procession from a distance is generally accepted, but do not use flash and follow any instructions from organisers or police.
Is it worth visiting Nepal in September for Indra Jatra?
If culture is your priority, yes. Indra Jatra shows Kathmandu's Newar traditions at their most lively. The trade-off is weather: September is the end of the monsoon, so expect some rain, hazy mountains and occasional road delays. Pair it with valley sightseeing rather than mountain flights, which are more likely to be cancelled in cloud.
What happens at Seto Bhairav during Indra Jatra?
The large gilded mask of Seto Bhairav at Hanuman Dhoka, normally kept behind a lattice screen, is uncovered for the festival. At set times rice beer is poured so it flows from a pipe in the mouth, and people crowd forward to drink, believing it brings good fortune. Catching the small fish placed in the flow is thought especially lucky.
