Nepal's trekking peaks are the usual first step above 6,000 m. Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189 m) is climbed from Chhukung after acclimatising on the Everest Base Camp trail; summit day starts around 1–2 am, crosses a glacier and finishes on a steep fixed-rope headwall. Mera Peak (6,476 m), south of Everest, is higher but technically easier, a long glacier walk with views of five 8,000 m peaks. Lobuche East (6,119 m) is steeper and rockier. Most itineraries take 16–20 days from Kathmandu and cost roughly US$2,200–3,500 with a climbing guide.
In the Annapurna region, Pisang Peak (6,091 m) is climbed from the Annapurna Circuit, and the Chulu peaks rise above Manang. Above these sit the expedition peaks: Ama Dablam (6,812 m), a steep technical climb, and Himlung Himal (7,126 m), a popular first 7,000 m summit. Trekking peaks need a permit from the Nepal Mountaineering Association, while expedition peaks need a government permit with royalties, a liaison officer and higher insurance. Royalties vary by season and were revised recently, so check current status before you travel.
Spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November) are the climbing seasons, with autumn colder but clearer. You do not need previous mountaineering experience for Island Peak or Mera, but you should be a strong trekker who has been above 4,500 m comfortably, and you will practise with crampons, ice axe, jumar and descender at base camp before the summit. Expect 10–14 hour summit days. Insurance must cover climbing to the peak's altitude and helicopter rescue. Good boots, a down jacket and proper acclimatisation matter more than raw strength.
How to choose
- Start with the right first peak
Mera Peak suits strong trekkers who want height without steep ice. Island Peak adds a short, steep headwall on fixed ropes and pairs neatly with Everest Base Camp. Lobuche East is more technical and better as a second peak. Choose by your experience on snow, not by the altitude number.
- Allow enough acclimatisation
Most failed summits come from rushing. A good trekking peak itinerary spends 10–12 days reaching base camp, often crossing a pass or climbing Kala Patthar first, and builds in a spare summit day for bad weather. Short itineraries look cheaper but cut the margin you need above 5,500 m.
- Check the guide ratio and gear
On summit day you want one climbing guide for every one or two climbers, fixed ropes on the steep sections and a gear check before you leave Kathmandu. Boots, harnesses and crampons can be rented in Thamel, but bring your own if you have them and test everything before the trek.
- Budget for permits and extras
Quotes should list the climbing permit, national park and municipality fees, garbage deposit, guide wages and summit bonus, and Lukla flights. Rescue insurance, rented gear, tips and extra nights after weather delays are usually extra. Fees change by season and year; check current status before you travel.
