Maha Shivaratri is the most important night of the year at Pashupatinath, Nepal's holiest Shiva temple. In the days before, sadhus arrive from across India and Nepal, some walking for weeks, and camp around the temple grounds and the forested Mrigasthali slope above the river, many with ash-covered bodies and sacred fires. Pilgrims queue from before dawn for darshan of the Shiva lingam, and the queues can stretch for well over a kilometre, moving slowly through the day.
Through the night devotees fast, sing bhajans and keep vigil. Lamps and dhuni fires burn along the ghats of the Bagmati, and the temple remains open far longer than usual. Children in Kathmandu traditionally stop passers-by with a rope across the lane to collect small coins for wood, and bonfires are lit in neighbourhoods to keep warm on what is usually a cold late-winter night. The Nepal Army holds a ceremonial event at Tundikhel in Kathmandu on the day.
For Hindu pilgrims from India, Shivaratri at Pashupatinath ranks among the major Shaiva pilgrimages, and we see many groups combine it with a valley temple circuit. Expect heavy security, road closures around Gaushala and Chabahil, and hotels near the temple full weeks ahead. Non-Hindus can watch from the eastern bank terraces but cannot enter the main courtyard.
Tips
- Join the darshan queue before 4 am or late at night for shorter waits, and carry water and a light snack if you are not fasting.
- Book Kathmandu hotels at least six weeks ahead, and expect road closures around Gaushala and Chabahil.
- Ask before photographing sadhus; many expect a small offering, and some decline photographs altogether.
Questions travellers ask
When is Maha Shivaratri at Pashupatinath?
Maha Shivaratri falls on the 14th night of the waning moon in the month of Falgun, usually in February or early March. The main crowds arrive the evening before and stay through the night and following day. Dates follow the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel; we confirm them when we plan your yatra.
How long is the darshan queue on Shivaratri?
On the main day the queue for darshan at Pashupatinath can take four to eight hours, sometimes longer at peak times in the morning. Queues are usually shorter very early, before 4 am, or late at night. Senior citizens and people with disabilities sometimes have separate lines; check on arrival with temple volunteers and police.
Can non-Hindus visit Pashupatinath on Shivaratri?
Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple courtyard at any time, including on Shivaratri. They can buy the visitor ticket and watch from the terraces on the eastern bank of the Bagmati, walk among the sadhu camps and see the fires and crowds. Expect heavy security and restricted routes on the day, and follow police instructions.
Is it safe for senior pilgrims to attend Shivaratri at Pashupatinath?
Yes, with planning. Crowds are very large and queues long, so we suggest seniors go for darshan in the days just before or after the main night, or very early in the morning, with a guide and a vehicle waiting close by. Wear warm layers, as February nights in Kathmandu fall to around 3 to 5 °C.
