The name Tiji is usually explained as a shortened form of tenchi, meaning the hope for the Buddha Dharma to prevail. The festival tells the story of Dorje Jono, a form of Vajrakila, who fought his demon father, a creature who caused water shortages and disease in Lo. Over three days the monks of Chhoede Gompa act out the story in elaborate silk costumes and painted masks, accompanied by long horns, drums and cymbals, in the square below the royal palace.
The first day, Tsa Chham, introduces the story with slow, solemn dances; a giant thangka is often displayed on the palace wall. The second day, Nga Chham, brings more dances as Dorje Jono tries to send the demon back to the underworld. On the third day, Rha Chham, the demon is symbolically destroyed, often in the form of a dough effigy, and the procession leaves the walls. Members of the former royal family traditionally attend in formal dress.
Tiji draws people from all over Upper Mustang, many in their best chubas, turquoise and coral jewellery. For visitors it is the best chance to see the walled city at its liveliest, but rooms fill months ahead and jeeps and horses are in high demand. Dates follow the Tibetan calendar: in 2026 the festival fell on 14–16 May. Check the date for your year before you travel.
Tips
- Book Lo Manthang rooms and Jomsom flights 4–6 months ahead; Tiji is the busiest week of the year.
- Arrive at least a day early to acclimatise and find a viewing spot; the square fills fast in the morning.
- Do not walk into the dance area or stand in front of the musicians; ask before photographing people and avoid flash.
Questions travellers ask
When is Tiji festival in 2027?
Tiji is held over three days in the third month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, usually in May. In 2026 it fell on 14–16 May. The 2027 dates are set by the monastery and Tibetan calendar, likely in mid to late May. We confirm dates early in the year; check current status before you travel.
How do I get to Lo Manthang for Tiji?
Fly Pokhara–Jomsom, then travel to Lo Manthang by jeep in 6–8 hours, usually with a night in Ghami or Tsarang, or trek in 5–6 days from Kagbeni. Some visitors fly by helicopter. All need the Upper Mustang restricted area permit. Plan to arrive at least a day before the festival.
Can tourists watch Tiji festival?
Yes, visitors are welcome to watch the dances in the main square. There is no ticket, but respectful behaviour is expected: stay out of the dance area, do not block locals' view, dress modestly and ask before photographing people. A donation to the monastery is appreciated.
Is a Tiji festival trek worth it?
Yes, if you plan well. Combining the Upper Mustang trek or jeep tour with Tiji shows Lo Manthang at its most colourful and gives you the region at its best season. The trade-offs are higher prices, crowded lodges and the need to fix your dates around the festival.
