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Ranighat Durbar (Rani Mahal) · On the water

Riverside picnic on the Kali Gandaki

A relaxed packed lunch on the sandbanks and boulders below Rani Mahal, with the palace above, the Kali Gandaki flowing past and time to sit, photograph and paddle at the edge before heading back to Tansen.

  • 1.5 hours
  • Midday, Nov–Apr
  • Packed lunch ≈ ₹600 per person from Tansen

The Kali Gandaki is one of Nepal's great rivers, rising near the Tibetan border and cutting through the Himalaya between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna before flowing south past Palpa. Below Rani Mahal, in the dry season, it leaves wide sandbanks and smooth boulders along the bank, ideal for a picnic.

We carry a packed lunch from Tansen, usually sandwiches, boiled eggs, fruit, local snacks and tea in flasks, and settle in a shaded spot with a view of the palace. It is a good time for photographs of the white façade reflected in calmer water, and for watching local boats or fishermen when they are about.

The water is cold and the current strong, so paddling should stay at the very edge. From June to September the river rises sharply and the sandbanks disappear, so we only offer the picnic from November to April. Please carry all litter back to Tansen.

Good for

  • Families
  • Couples
  • Photographers

Questions travellers ask

Is it safe to swim in the Kali Gandaki at Ranighat?

No. Even in the dry season the Kali Gandaki has strong currents and cold water, and drowning accidents happen. Paddling at the very edge on calm sandbanks is the limit. In the monsoon the river is high and dangerous, and we do not go to the bank.

Can we buy food at Rani Mahal?

A few small teashops near the palace sell drinks, biscuits and instant noodles, but there is no restaurant. Bring a packed lunch from Tansen. Hotel Srinagar and old-town cafés can prepare picnic boxes with a day's notice.

When is the best season for a Ranighat picnic?

November to April, when the river is low and sandbanks are exposed. December to February is coolest and most pleasant, though mornings can be foggy in the valley. March and April are warmer and still dry, with spring flowers on the trail.

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