Thakali khana set is now served all over Nepal, but it comes from this valley, where Thakali families ran inns for salt traders. In our cooking evening a hotel cook shows you how black lentil dal is slow-cooked in an iron pot, how mustard greens are stir-fried with dried chilli and timur (Sichuan pepper), and how the sharp radish and tomato achar is ground on a stone.
Buckwheat is the local grain at this height. You will mix buckwheat flour into dhido, a stiff porridge eaten by hand, and fry buckwheat pancakes called kanchemba or simply eaten with local honey. Vegetarian and Jain-friendly versions are easy to arrange, since many of our Indian guests prefer no onion or garlic, and the cook adjusts spice for children.
The session lasts around two hours and ends with dinner at the hotel. It works best for small groups of two to eight. There is no stage show: you stand in a working kitchen, ask questions and eat well. Bring an appetite and a little patience, as cooking at 2,720 m takes longer and pressure cookers whistle constantly.
Good for
- Families
- Couples
- Groups
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
Is Thakali food vegetarian?
Thakali set meals are easily vegetarian: rice or dhido, dal, seasonal greens, potato curry and pickles. Meat versions add dried mutton or yak. For pure vegetarian or Jain meals without onion and garlic, tell us when booking and we brief the hotel kitchen in advance. Most Jomsom hotels already cook for Indian pilgrim groups.
What is dhido?
Dhido is a thick porridge made by stirring buckwheat or millet flour into boiling water until it holds together. It is eaten by hand with dal, greens and pickle and keeps you full for hours, which is why it suits cold, high villages. It tastes nutty and mild and takes some practice to eat neatly.
Can I buy Marpha apple products in Jomsom?
Yes. Shops in Jomsom sell Marpha dried apples, apple jam, apple cider vinegar, juice and local apple and apricot brandy. Prices are a little higher than in Marpha village itself. Alcohol cannot be carried on some domestic flights in hand luggage, so pack bottles well in checked bags.
