How hard is the Annapurna Circuit
We grade our 15-day Annapurna Circuit trek as Challenging. That means long days at altitude and one very big day, but no ropes, no climbing and no scrambling in normal conditions. Anyone who can walk 5–6 hours on hilly ground with a light pack, two days running, can do it with training and patience. The trek costs from US$1,210 or ₹1,04,000 per person on twin sharing, including the jeep to Chame, the Jomsom flight, guide, porter, permit and trail meals.
What makes the Circuit harder than Annapurna Base Camp is height. You sleep above 3,500 m for five nights and cross a pass higher than any point on the ABC trek by almost 1,300 m. What makes it easier is the gradient: the Marsyangdi valley rises steadily, so the climb to Manang is spread over several days and the trail has few of the stone staircases found south of the Annapurnas.
The road and the side trails
Since the 2010s, a dirt road has followed the Marsyangdi up to Manang, and another links Muktinath with Jomsom on the far side of the pass. Jeeps and motorbikes now use sections of what was once the walking trail, which is why most itineraries, ours included, drive from Besisahar to Chame in about 6–7 hours and start walking at 2,670 m. The jeep ride is rough and can be slowed by landslides after rain.
Above Chame, the New Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT) keep walkers off the road for most of the way. These are painted, signposted paths on the opposite bank or higher on the hillside. The best of them is the upper route from Upper Pisang through Ghyaru and Ngawal, which climbs 360 m in the first hour to Ghyaru at 3,670 m and then contours with views of Annapurna II and Gangapurna. It is harder than the road along the valley floor but quieter, more scenic and better for acclimatisation.
If you have more time and want to walk the lower valley as well, a longer itinerary starts on foot at Bhulbhule or Jagat and follows the gorge past the waterfalls at Tal and through Dharapani before reaching Chame on day five or six. It adds 3–4 days and a lot of warm, low-altitude walking among rice terraces and Gurung and Manangi villages, but some stretches still share the road with jeeps.
Daily stages and height gain
This is how our 15-day itinerary climbs. Height gain is between overnight stops; the actual climbing on some days is more, because the trail goes up and down. The safety rule above 3,000 m is to raise your sleeping height by no more than 300–500 m a night, with a rest day every 1,000 m, and this plan keeps close to it.
| Day | Stage | Sleep altitude | Change | Walking |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 | Besisahar to Chame by jeep | 2,670 m | +1,910 m by road | Drive 6–7 h |
| 4 | Chame to Upper Pisang | 3,310 m | +640 m | 5–6 h |
| 5 | Upper Pisang to Ngawal via Ghyaru | 3,660 m | +350 m | 5 h |
| 6 | Ngawal to Manang | 3,519 m | −141 m | 4 h |
| 7 | Rest day, hike to Praken Gompa 3,945 m | 3,519 m | 0 | 3–4 h |
| 8 | Manang to Yak Kharka | 4,018 m | +499 m | 3–4 h |
| 9 | Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi | 4,450 m | +432 m | 3–4 h |
| 10 | Thorong La 5,416 m to Muktinath | 3,710 m | +966 m, −1,706 m | 8–10 h |
Crossing Thorong La
Pass day starts with breakfast at 3:30 am and walking by 4 am, by headtorch. From Thorong Phedi at 4,450 m, the first hour is the steepest, a zigzag climb of about 430 m to High Camp at 4,880 m. From there the trail rises more gently over moraine and false summits for another 3 hours to the prayer flags at 5,416 m. Most of our groups reach the top between 8 and 9 am.
The early start is about wind, not views. By 10 or 11 am a strong westerly wind usually picks up across the pass and can make the descent cold and slow. Temperatures before dawn in October and November are commonly −10 to −15 °C with wind chill, so you need down jacket, gloves, hat and a flask of hot water. There is a small tea hut at the top in season, but do not count on it.
Some trekkers sleep at High Camp instead of Phedi to shorten the pass day by an hour. We prefer Phedi for most groups because the move from Yak Kharka to High Camp gains about 860 m in one night, too much for many people. If the group is strong and well acclimatised, High Camp is a reasonable choice, though its rooms are colder and fill first.
The 1,700 m descent to Muktinath
Many trekkers find the way down harder than the way up. From the pass the trail drops about 1,700 m to Muktinath at 3,710 m in 4–5 hours, on steep zigzags of loose gravel and, early in the season, packed snow. Trekking poles save your knees, and microspikes help when the upper section is icy. A couple of tea shops at Chabarbu, roughly halfway, are the first shelter.
Muktinath, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists, makes a good reward. The next morning we visit the temple and its 108 water spouts before driving through Kagbeni to Jomsom for the 20-minute flight to Pokhara.
Why we walk anticlockwise
Almost everyone crosses Thorong La from east to west, starting in Besisahar. Going the other way, from Muktinath, means climbing about 1,700 m to the pass in a single day from a sleeping height of 3,710 m. There are no proper lodges between Chabarbu and the top, so you cannot break the climb. That breaks every acclimatisation rule and is the main reason clockwise crossings are rare and not something we offer.
The anticlockwise direction also puts the Manang rest day in the right place. By the time you leave Manang you have slept at 3,310 m, 3,660 m and twice at 3,519 m, and climbed to 3,945 m or higher on the rest-day hike. Those four nights do more to get you over the pass than any amount of training at home. Trekkers who add our Tilicho Lake extension spend two more nights above 4,000 m and usually find the pass a little easier for it.
Snow, closures and fitness training
Thorong La is usually open from March to early December. Heavy snow can close it at any time, most often from late December to February, and spring storms in March and early April can block it for a few days. In October 2014 a sudden blizzard linked to Cyclone Hudhud killed more than 40 people in the region, which is why our guides watch forecasts closely and will wait a day at Phedi rather than cross in bad weather. Check current status before you travel in winter or early spring.
For training, we suggest starting 8–10 weeks before departure. Most people who struggle on the Circuit are not unfit; they climbed too fast or did not train for long days back to back.
- Three or four cardio sessions a week of 45–60 minutes: brisk walking uphill, cycling, swimming or running
- One long walk each weekend, building to 5–6 hours with 800–1,000 m of ascent
- Stair climbing with an 8–10 kg pack, building to 45 minutes without stopping
- Two back-to-back long walks in the last month, to practise recovering overnight
- Squats, lunges and step-downs twice a week to prepare the knees for the descent from the pass
- Wear in your boots on every training walk, so nothing new goes on the trail
Places in this guide
Questions travellers ask
Is the Annapurna Circuit difficult for beginners?
It is a demanding first trek but a possible one for a fit, well-prepared beginner. Most days are 4–6 hours, and there is no technical climbing. The challenge is altitude and the 8–10 hour Thorong La day at 5,416 m. Beginners should train for 8–10 weeks, allow an acclimatisation day in Manang and walk with an experienced guide.
How hard is Thorong La Pass?
Thorong La is hard because of altitude, not technique. From Thorong Phedi at 4,450 m you climb about 970 m to 5,416 m in 4–5 hours, starting around 4 am, then descend about 1,700 m to Muktinath in another 4–5 hours. Thin air makes every step slow. In snow, microspikes and a guide who knows the route become essential.
Should I stay at Thorong Phedi or High Camp?
We usually stay at Thorong Phedi at 4,450 m. Moving from Yak Kharka to High Camp at 4,880 m gains about 860 m in one day, which raises the risk of altitude sickness. High Camp shortens the pass day by about an hour and suits strong, well-acclimatised groups, but it is colder and its rooms fill early in season.
What time do you start Thorong La crossing?
Most groups leave Thorong Phedi between 4 and 5 am, after an early breakfast, and reach the pass between 8 and 9 am. The main reason is wind: a strong westerly usually builds across the pass after 10 or 11 am, making the top and the descent cold and slow. Early starts also leave time for the long walk down to Muktinath.
When is Thorong La closed?
Thorong La is most likely to be closed by snow from late December to February, and sometimes for a few days in March or early April after spring storms. It is usually open from March to early December. Even in October an unseasonal storm can shut it briefly. Check current status before you travel and follow your guide's call on the day.
Why is the Annapurna Circuit done anticlockwise?
Walking anticlockwise from Besisahar lets you gain height gradually up the Marsyangdi valley and cross Thorong La from Thorong Phedi, a climb of about 970 m. From the Muktinath side the climb is about 1,700 m in a single day with nowhere to sleep higher up, which is unsafe for acclimatisation and much harder.
Is there a road on the Annapurna Circuit?
Yes. A dirt road runs up the Marsyangdi valley to Manang and another connects Muktinath to Jomsom on the west side. Jeeps share parts of the old trail, so many itineraries drive from Besisahar to Chame. Above Chame, the New Annapurna Trekking Trails and high routes such as Ghyaru and Ngawal keep you away from traffic most of the way.
How many hours a day do you walk on the Annapurna Circuit?
On our 15-day trek, most walking days take 3–6 hours, with lunch stops on top. The shortest days are above Manang, where height gain is limited to protect acclimatisation, at 3–4 hours. The exception is the Thorong La crossing, which takes 8–10 hours from Thorong Phedi over the pass to Muktinath.
How fit do I need to be for the Annapurna Circuit?
You should be able to walk 5–6 hours with 800–1,000 m of ascent carrying a light pack, and do it again the next day. Start training 8–10 weeks ahead with uphill walking, stair climbs with a loaded pack and leg strength work for the long descent. Fitness does not prevent altitude sickness, so climb slowly regardless.
