Besisahar is a working market town rather than a mountain village. It stretches along a ridge above the Marsyangdi river, with government offices, banks, hardware shops and bus counters lining the main road. For decades trekkers began the Annapurna Circuit by walking out of the northern end of town, and although the road now continues all the way to Manang, Besisahar is still where most people switch from a bus to a four-wheel-drive jeep and where the ACAP permit is first checked.
The town sits in subtropical country, with rice terraces, banana trees and sal forest on the hillsides around it. On clear mornings in autumn and winter you can glimpse the snow of Lamjung Himal and Manaslu's southern ridges from the higher streets. The people of Lamjung are a mix of Gurung, Brahmin, Chhetri and Dalit communities, and the Gurung hill villages above the valley, such as Ghale Gaun and Bhujung, are known for homestay tourism.
Most trekkers spend only one night in Besisahar, or pass straight through. That is a pity only if you are interested in ordinary Nepali town life, which is easy to see here: tea shops serving sel roti at dawn, school children in uniform, buses being loaded with sacks of rice for upper villages. Practically, it is the last place on the circuit with reliable ATMs and full shops until Chame or Manang, so stock up on cash, snacks and any forgotten gear.
What to see and do
- Gateway to the Annapurna Circuit
Besisahar has been the official start of the Annapurna Circuit since the region opened to foreign trekkers in 1977. From here the route follows the Marsyangdi north and west for about 95 km to Manang before climbing to Thorong La at 5,416 m. The ACAP checkpost on the edge of town records every trekker heading up.
- Jeep stand for the upper valley
Shared and private jeeps leave Besisahar each morning for Chame, about 6–7 hours, and Manang, about 9–10 hours. Seats can be booked at the counters near the bus park the evening before. This is the moment you decide how much of the lower circuit to drive and how much to walk.
- Last full services before the mountains
Banks, several ATMs, pharmacies, mobile phone shops and general stores line the main road. Above Besisahar, cash machines are rare and unreliable until Chame, and prices rise with every day of portering. Buy snacks, a local SIM card, spare batteries and any medicine here rather than higher up.
- Rice terraces of the lower Marsyangdi
The first stretch of the valley north of town, towards Bhulbhule and Bahundanda, is green and low, with rice terraces, bamboo and waterfalls. In October the terraces turn gold before harvest. Walkers who start here see the full change from subtropical farmland to high desert within a week.
- Side trips to Gurung hill villages
Lamjung's hill villages above Besisahar, including Ghale Gaun and Bhujung, run community homestays with Gurung cultural programmes and views towards Lamjung Himal and the Annapurnas. They make a one- or two-night add-on before or after the circuit, reached by jeep in about 2–3 hours on rough roads.
Experiences in Besisahar
How to reach Besisahar
Road
Kathmandu to Besisahar is about 175 km and 6–7 hours via the Prithvi Highway and Dumre. Pokhara to Besisahar is about 110 km and 4 hours. Tourist buses, local buses and private cars run daily; the Dumre to Besisahar section has improved but still slows near landslide zones.
Air
Besisahar has no airport. The nearest is Pokhara, about 4 hours away by road. On the far side of the circuit, Jomsom airport links to Pokhara in about 20 minutes, which is why most itineraries start in Besisahar and finish with a flight out of Jomsom.
On foot
Walkers heading up the valley leave the north end of town and can follow the New Annapurna Trekking Trail sections on the opposite bank from the road, via Bhulbhule at 840 m and Bahundanda at 1,310 m, reaching Chame in about 5 days.
Where to stay
Besisahar has a handful of mid-range hotels along the main road and near the bus park, plus simpler guesthouses aimed at trekkers and travelling Nepali businesspeople. Rooms usually come with attached bathrooms, hot water from solar or gas heaters, and Wi-Fi of variable speed. None are luxury properties, so think of it as a clean, practical overnight before the jeep ride. Book a room on the quieter side away from the bus park if you can, because buses start loading before dawn. On our circuit itineraries we reserve a standard hotel here for one night.
Tips from our trip managers
- Withdraw enough Nepali rupees in Besisahar for at least the first week of the circuit, as ATMs higher up are few and often empty.
- Book jeep seats to Chame or Manang the evening before, and ask for a front or middle-row seat on the river side for the best views.
- Carry your ACAP permit and passport copy in an easy pocket, as the checkpost on the edge of town will want to see them.
- If you are prone to motion sickness, take medication before the jeep ride, which climbs on a rough, winding road for hours.
- In the monsoon, check road conditions each morning: landslides above Besisahar can close the valley road for a day or more.
