North base camp, south base camp or both
Kanchenjunga, at 8,586 m the third-highest mountain in the world, stands on the border between Nepal and Sikkim, and the Nepal side has two trekking base camps. Pangpema, the north base camp at 5,143 m, sits on a grassy terrace beside the Kanchenjunga Glacier, facing the north face across the ice. It is reached by walking up the Tamor and Ghunsa valleys through Ghunsa, Kambachen and Lhonak.
The south side is approached from Yamphudin through Torontan and Tseram to Ramche, and from there to the Oktang viewpoint at about 4,730 m, above the Yalung Glacier and below the south-west face. Most trekkers who come this far link the two sides over the high passes between Ghunsa and Tseram, which turns the trek into a circuit of about 22 days from Kathmandu.
If time is short, a north-only trek returning via Ghunsa takes about 18–20 days and avoids the long pass day. A south-only trek to Oktang is shorter still but misses the closest views of the main summit. We think the full circuit is worth the extra days if you are fit and have walked at altitude before.
Permits and the licensed guide rule
The upper Tamor and Ghunsa valleys and the south side above Yamphudin are restricted areas, so every foreign trekker needs a restricted area permit. As we understand the current rules, it costs about US$20 per person per week for the first four weeks. It is issued by the Department of Immigration only through a registered trekking agency, only for groups of at least two foreign trekkers, and only with a licensed guide. Solo trekking is not allowed.
You also need a Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit, about NPR 2,000–3,000 for foreigners, checked at posts along the trail. Indian nationals need both permits and must also trek with a licensed guide; the fee for SAARC nationals can differ, so we confirm it when you book. Allow at least two working days in Kathmandu for the paperwork, which is why our itinerary includes a city night before the flight east. Check current status before you travel.
The 22-day itinerary at a glance
This is the route we run, with overnight altitudes and approximate walking times. Jeep roads up the Tamor valley and out of Yamphudin change every season, so the first and last walking days can shift by a few hours. We build in an acclimatisation day at Ghunsa and a spare day in Kathmandu for weather delays on the Bhadrapur flights.
| Days | Stage | Overnight altitude | Walking or driving |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | Kathmandu; fly to Bhadrapur, drive to Ilam | 1,400 m; 1,200 m | 50 min flight + 3 h drive |
| 3–4 | Drive to Phungling; jeep to Sekathum | 1,820 m; 1,660 m | 7–8 h; 5–6 h |
| 5–7 | Amjilosa, Gyabla, Ghunsa | 2,510 m; 2,730 m; 3,595 m | 5–7 h a day |
| 8 | Acclimatisation at Ghunsa | 3,595 m | 3–4 h hike to about 4,000 m |
| 9–10 | Kambachen, Lhonak | 4,050 m; 4,785 m | 5–7 h a day |
| 11 | Pangpema day hike | 4,785 m (top 5,143 m) | 6–7 h return |
| 12–14 | Down to Ghunsa, Sele Le, passes to Tseram | 3,595 m; 4,290 m; 3,870 m | 5–9 h a day |
| 15–16 | Ramche, Oktang viewpoint, back to Tseram | 4,580 m; 3,870 m (top 4,730 m) | 3–7 h a day |
| 17–19 | Torontan, Yamphudin, jeep to Ilam | 2,990 m; 2,080 m; 1,200 m | 5–7 h walks; 8–9 h jeep |
| 20–22 | Fly to Kathmandu, spare day, depart | 1,400 m | 3 h drive + 50 min flight |
How hard it is and how to acclimatise
We grade the circuit Strenuous. Most trekking days involve 6–8 hours of walking on steep, sometimes rough trail, and the pass day from Sele Le to Tseram crosses three passes above 4,400 m in 8–9 hours. You sleep above 4,000 m on several nights, with Lhonak at 4,785 m the highest. It is not a first trek: if you have done Everest or Annapurna Base Camp comfortably, you are ready.
Altitude sickness is the main risk. Mild headache, poor sleep and loss of appetite are common above 3,500 m; worsening headache, vomiting, confusion or breathlessness at rest are warning signs that mean descending at once. Our itinerary gains height slowly through the lower valley, rests a full day at Ghunsa before sleeping above 4,000 m, and an extra rest day at Kambachen or Lhonak can be added for about US$75 per person. Guides check oxygen levels daily and carry a satellite communicator for emergencies.
Train for at least two months: long hill walks with a loaded daypack, stair climbing and cardio three to four times a week. Insurance must cover trekking to 5,200 m and helicopter evacuation, because rescue from Lhonak or Ramche is long and expensive.
What the trek costs
Our 22-day Kanchenjunga circuit starts from about US$2,490 or ₹2,15,000 per person in a group of two to four, twin sharing. It covers Kathmandu hotel nights, Kathmandu–Bhadrapur flights, road and jeep transport, both permits, a licensed guide, porters, teahouse rooms and three meals a day on the trek. Insurance, tips, drinks, showers and charging are extra.
The trek costs more than Everest or Annapurna treks of similar length because the access is longer, the permit is charged weekly, and lodges are few and supplied over long distances. Groups of three or four bring the per-person cost down because the guide, jeeps and paperwork are shared.
| Item | Typical cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Restricted area permit | ≈ US$20 per person per week, first four weeks | Via a registered agency only; check current status before you travel |
| Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit | ≈ NPR 2,000–3,000 | One per trek |
| Licensed guide | ≈ US$30–40 per day | Compulsory; includes guide's food and bed |
| Porter | ≈ US$20–25 per day | One porter for two trekkers on our trips |
| Teahouse meals and room | ≈ US$25–40 per day | Rises above Ghunsa |
| Tips | ≈ US$150–250 per trekker | Shared between guide and porters |
Teahouses, food and staying in touch
Lodges on the Kanchenjunga trail are simpler and fewer than on the Everest or Annapurna routes. Lower villages such as Sekathum, Amjilosa and Gyabla have small family lodges with twin rooms and shared toilets. Ghunsa, a Sherpa village with a monastery, has several lodges and a few shops. Above it, Kambachen, Lhonak, Tseram and Ramche have basic lodges that can fill in October and our staff book them ahead by phone where lines allow.
Food is dal bhat, noodles, potatoes, eggs and porridge, with less choice than on busier trails. Mobile data works in lower villages and sometimes in Ghunsa, and some lodges sell Wi-Fi, but expect several days without signal. Carry enough cash in Nepali rupees for the whole trek: there are no ATMs beyond Phungling.
What to pack for Kanchenjunga
Your porter carries up to about 10 kg of your kit when two trekkers share one, so pack light and pack for cold. Lodges above Ghunsa have no heating in the rooms, and the dining-room stove is often lit only in the evening. Down jackets and sleeping bags can be rented in Thamel if you would rather not buy them.
- Sleeping bag rated to about −15 °C, and a liner for the lower lodges
- Down jacket, fleece, thermal base layers, waterproof jacket and trousers
- Broken-in trekking boots, camp shoes and four pairs of wool socks
- Warm hat, sun hat, glacier sunglasses and two pairs of gloves
- Head torch, 20,000 mAh power bank and a small solar charger if you have one
- Water filter or purification tablets and two 1-litre bottles
- Personal first-aid kit with blister plasters, rehydration salts and any altitude medicine your doctor prescribes
- Cash in Nepali rupees for the whole trek, plus passport copies and photos for permits
Best season for Kanchenjunga
April–May and October–November are the two seasons. October and November give the clearest skies and most stable weather, with nights at Lhonak falling to around −10 to −15 °C. April brings rhododendrons in flower between Ghunsa and Tseram and warmer days, with more afternoon cloud. Late March and September can work with flexible plans.
From December to February snow closes the passes and many high lodges shut. From June to September the monsoon brings heavy rain, leeches and landslides on the Tamor valley roads, and we do not run the trek.
Places in this guide
Questions travellers ask
How long is the Kanchenjunga Base Camp trek?
About 22 days from Kathmandu for the full circuit to both Pangpema and Oktang, with 14–16 walking days. A north-only trek to Pangpema and back via Ghunsa takes about 18–20 days. Two days at each end go on flights to Bhadrapur and the long drive through Ilam to Phungling and the trailhead.
How much does the Kanchenjunga Base Camp trek cost?
Our 22-day circuit starts from about US$2,490 or ₹2,15,000 per person for a group of two to four, twin sharing, including flights to Bhadrapur, transport, permits, licensed guide, porters, teahouses and meals on the trek. Insurance, tips, drinks and charging are extra. Larger groups pay less per person.
Can I trek Kanchenjunga solo?
No. The Kanchenjunga restricted area permit is issued only through a registered agency for groups of at least two foreign trekkers walking with a licensed guide. A single traveller can join another trekker in a small group to meet the rule. Check current status before you travel, as permit rules in Nepal change.
What is the altitude of Kanchenjunga Base Camp?
Pangpema, the north base camp, is at 5,143 m, and the trek's highest overnight is Lhonak at 4,785 m. Oktang, the viewpoint above the south base camp area, is at about 4,730 m. The pass crossing between Ghunsa and Tseram goes above 4,400 m.
Is Kanchenjunga harder than Everest Base Camp?
Yes, overall. Everest Base Camp goes higher, to 5,364 m, but Kanchenjunga is longer, more remote and has simpler lodges, with 6–8 hour days, a three-pass crossing and fewer rescue options. Kanchenjunga gains height more gradually, which helps acclimatisation. Trekkers who managed Everest Base Camp comfortably usually cope well.
How do I get to the Kanchenjunga trek start?
Fly 50 minutes from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur and drive about 3 hours to Ilam for the night. Next day drive about 7–8 hours via Phidim to Phungling, then take a jeep up the Tamor valley to Sekathum in about 5–6 hours when the road is open. Small flights to Suketar near Phungling run irregularly.
Do Indians need a permit for the Kanchenjunga trek?
Yes. Indian nationals need the restricted area permit and the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area permit, and must trek with a licensed guide through a registered agency in a group of at least two. Fees for SAARC nationals can differ from those for other foreigners, so we confirm them on booking. Check current status before you travel.
When is the best time for the Kanchenjunga trek?
October and November give the clearest views and stable weather. April and May are the second season, with rhododendrons in flower and warmer days. December to February closes the passes with snow, and June to September brings monsoon rain, leeches and landslides on the access roads.
Are there teahouses all the way to Kanchenjunga Base Camp?
Yes, the circuit can now be done staying in teahouses, though lodges are basic and few. Ghunsa has the most choice. Kambachen, Lhonak, Tseram and Ramche have simple lodges that can fill in October, so we book ahead where phone signal allows. Pangpema itself is visited as a day hike from Lhonak.
