Kanchenjunga, 8,586 m, straddles the border of Nepal and Sikkim, and the Nepali side is protected within the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area, managed with local communities since 1997. Two base camps are visited by trekkers. Pangpema, the north base camp at 5,143 m, is a grassy shelf above the Kanchenjunga Glacier with the north face filling the sky, reached via the Sherpa village of Ghunsa and the summer pastures of Kambachen and Lhonak. Oktang, on the south side above the Yalung Glacier at about 4,730 m, looks straight up the south-west face.
These are true wilderness treks. Lodges are simple teahouses run by local families; the busiest days see perhaps a few dozen trekkers on the trail, compared with hundreds on the Everest route. Walking days are long, often 6–8 hours, and the trails cross landslide scars, glacial moraine and, on the combined route, three passes between Ghunsa and Tseram topping out at roughly 4,500 m. Wildlife includes blue sheep, Himalayan tahr and, rarely seen, snow leopard and red panda.
Because the region borders Tibet and Sikkim, it is a restricted area. Foreign trekkers need a restricted area permit issued through a licensed agency, a conservation area permit, a licensed guide and a minimum of two people in the group. Indian nationals also need permits for this route. With the jeep road now reaching higher up the Tamor valley, the full north and south circuit fits into about 20–22 days from Kathmandu, including the long journey east.
What to see and do
- The north face from Pangpema
From the grassy terraces of Pangpema at 5,143 m the north face of Kanchenjunga rises more than 3,000 m above the glacier, with Jannu's back and the Twins nearby. Climbers' expeditions camp here in spring; trekkers come up from Lhonak for a few hours.
- Ghunsa Sherpa village
At 3,595 m, Ghunsa is the largest village on the north side, with stone houses, prayer flags, a gompa and a health post. Treks spend an acclimatisation day here, often hiking to viewpoints above the village.
- Oktang and the Yalung Glacier
On the southern route, the walk from Ramche to Oktang follows the moraine of the Yalung Glacier to a chorten and viewpoint at about 4,730 m below the south-west face, with Kabru and Rathong lining the valley.
- The passes between north and south
Linking the two base camps means crossing Sele La, Sinion La and Mirgin La in one long day from Sele Le to Tseram, topping out at roughly 4,500 m with views back to Makalu and Everest on clear days.
- Few trekkers, real wilderness
Restricted access and distance keep numbers low. You walk through rhododendron forest, yak pastures and glacier valleys where wildlife like blue sheep is common and snow leopard tracks are sometimes found.
- Kanchenjunga Conservation Area
The protected area covers about 2,035 sq km and is managed with local councils, who run lodges, collect fees and protect forests. Your permit fees go partly to village projects.
Experiences in Kanchenjunga Base Camp (Pangpema)
How to reach Kanchenjunga Base Camp (Pangpema)
Air
Fly Kathmandu–Bhadrapur (50 min). Occasional flights to Taplejung's Suketar airstrip exist but are unreliable.
Road
Bhadrapur to Ilam is ≈ 95 km and 3 hours; Ilam to Phungling ≈ 160 km and 7–8 hours. From Phungling, jeeps run up the Tamor valley to Sekathum in about 5–6 hours when the road is open. Check current status before you travel.
On foot
From Sekathum (about 1,660 m) it is 4–5 walking days via Amjilosa, Gyabla and Ghunsa, then 3 more via Kambachen and Lhonak to Pangpema, including one acclimatisation day.
Helicopter
Charter helicopters can reach Ghunsa or fly scenic loops over the base camps in good weather, and are the usual means of rescue. Landings at high camps depend on weather and payload.
Where to stay
There are no hotels at Pangpema; most trekkers sleep at Lhonak (4,785 m) and walk up and back in a day. Along the north route, family-run teahouses in Sekathum, Amjilosa, Gyabla, Ghunsa and Kambachen offer twin rooms with foam mattresses, shared toilets and a heated dining room; Ghunsa has the most choice. On the south side, lodges at Yamphudin, Torontan, Tseram and Ramche are more basic, and some close outside peak months. Expect dal bhat, noodles and potatoes, and bring a warm sleeping bag rated to −15 °C.
Tips from our trip managers
- Spend at least one full acclimatisation day at Ghunsa and sleep no more than 500 m higher each night above 3,000 m.
- Carry enough cash for the whole trek: there are no ATMs beyond Phungling.
- Buy a local SIM in Kathmandu but expect no signal for days at a time; our guides carry a satellite device.
- Microspikes help on the passes between Sele Le and Tseram after fresh snow in November and April.
- Leave buffer days at the end for flight delays out of Bhadrapur and landslides on the roads.
