The day starts at Tikhedhunga (1,540 m), where two suspension bridges cross the Bhurungdi Khola. Almost immediately the stone staircase begins. Trekkers often quote 3,300 steps to Ulleri, and while nobody we know has counted them twice with the same result, the climb is real: 480 m of height in about two hours, with no flat ground to speak of. Mule trains share the steps, so stand on the uphill side when they pass.
Ulleri (2,020 m) is a Magar village of slate-roofed houses and lodges, and the first point where Annapurna South and Hiunchuli appear above the ridge. We stop here for tea and a lemon ginger honey. Above Ulleri the gradient eases and the trail enters oak and rhododendron forest, passing the small lodge clusters of Banthanti (2,250 m) and Nangethanti (2,430 m). Lunch is usually at one of these, about four hours into the day.
The final 450 m to Ghorepani is a steady climb through forest that stays cool and shaded even in May. Most groups arrive between 2 and 4 pm. Many itineraries now skip the staircase by taking a jeep to Ulleri, which cuts the day to five or six hours. We offer both and tell guests honestly that the staircase is tiring rather than technical: anyone fit enough to climb stairs for an hour at a time can do it.
Good for
- First-timers
- Groups
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
How many steps are there to Ulleri?
The usual figure is about 3,300 stone steps between Tikhedhunga and Ulleri, covering roughly 480 m of height. Counts vary because the staircase mixes steps with short sloping sections. Most trekkers take 1.5 to 2.5 hours for this part, with short breaks every 15 to 20 minutes.
Can we skip the Ulleri steps by jeep?
Yes. Jeeps now run from Pokhara to Ulleri in about 2.5 to 3.5 hours on a rough road, which removes the staircase and most of the first day's walking. You still have a 5 to 6 hour walk to Ghorepani. Road conditions change after landslides, so check current status before you travel.
Is the climb to Ghorepani suitable for children?
Children from about eight years old who walk regularly usually manage well if the day is split. We often break it at Ulleri or Banthanti, making two shorter days, and let a porter carry the bags. Bring snacks they like, as long staircases test patience more than fitness.
