Walking out of Besisahar is how the Annapurna Circuit began for decades, and it is still possible. The first stage north to Bhulbhule at 840 m covers roughly 8–10 km and gains only about 80 m, following the Marsyangdi through farmland. Where the main road hugs one bank, sections of the New Annapurna Trekking Trail cross to the other on suspension bridges, giving quieter walking through villages and fields. Your guide knows which bridges are currently open.
In October and November the terraces are gold with ripening rice, and threshing is done by hand on flat stone yards beside the houses. The air is warm, 25 °C or more at midday, so walkers start early. Waterfalls drop from the side valleys, and the first glimpse of snow peaks, usually Ngadi Chuli or Himalchuli to the east, appears on clear mornings before the haze builds. Carry at least 1.5 litres of water, since tea shops are spaced out on this stretch.
Bhulbhule has a few simple lodges and a waterfall beside the bridge. From there, walkers continue over the following days via Bahundanda, Jagat and Tal towards Chame, a total of about 5 days on foot. Many people now drive this section and save their legs for the high country, but for slow travellers this lower valley is a gentle and authentic start. Rooms in Bhulbhule cost little, and the riverside setting makes a calm first night on the trail before the climb to Bahundanda.
Good for
- Solo
- Couples
- Photographers
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
Is it worth walking from Besisahar instead of driving?
It depends on your time and interests. Walking the lower valley adds 3–4 days through subtropical farmland, rice terraces and waterfalls, with gradual acclimatisation. The downside is sections shared with the dusty road. If you have three weeks, walk it using the side trails; if you have two weeks, drive to Chame and spend the time higher up.
How long does it take to walk from Besisahar to Bhulbhule?
About 3–4 hours for most walkers, covering roughly 8–10 km with very little height gain, from 760 m to 840 m. The trail mixes road, farm tracks and footpaths on the opposite bank. Start before 9 am in autumn to avoid the midday heat, which can reach the high 20s Celsius in the valley floor.
Are there leeches on the lower Marsyangdi?
In the monsoon, from June to September, yes: the damp forests and fields of the lower valley have leeches, and the paths are muddy. From October to May they are rarely a problem. If you walk in the wet months, wear long trousers tucked into socks and carry salt or insect repellent to remove any that attach.
