Poon Hill is not a village and has no lodges. It is a rounded summit at 3,210 m, one ridge above Ghorepani, cleared of forest on top and crowned by a wooden viewing tower and a few tea stalls. The hill takes its name from the Pun clan of Magars who live below it. On a clear October morning between 300 and 600 people stand here at once, which tells you how good the view is and also how early you should leave.
The panorama runs about 180 degrees from west to east. Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) and Tukuche Peak dominate the left, separated from the Annapurna massif by the Kali Gandaki gorge, the deepest in the world by some measurements. Nilgiri and Annapurna I (8,091 m) sit in the middle distance, then Annapurna South (7,219 m), Hiunchuli (6,441 m), Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) and, on the clearest days, Lamjung Himal far to the east.
Most trekkers reach Poon Hill on the Ghorepani Poon Hill trek, a loop of four or five days from Pokhara that stays below 3,300 m. That low ceiling makes it the first Himalayan trek for many Indian families and international first-timers, and a common add-on to longer routes such as Khopra Danda or the old Jomsom trail. Our four-day version from Pokhara starts at ₹29,000 or US$340 per person, permits and guide included.
What to see and do
- Sunrise on Dhaulagiri
The first light hits Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) a few minutes before the sun clears the eastern ridge. The summit glows pink, then gold, while the valleys below stay dark blue. In late October sunrise is around 6:05 am, so arriving by 5:45 am gives you the whole show.
- Wooden watchtower
A three-level wooden tower on the summit lifts you above the crowd and the tea stall roofs. It gets crowded in the 20 minutes around sunrise, so climb it first and then step back to the edge of the clearing, where the view of Annapurna South is just as clear.
- Machhapuchhre's fishtail
From most of Pokhara you see Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) face-on as a single pyramid. From Poon Hill the angle shows hints of its twin summit, the 'fish tail' that gives it its name. The mountain is sacred and has never been officially climbed.
- More than a dozen named summits
On a clear morning you can pick out more than a dozen named summits, including Dhaulagiri, Tukuche, Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Lamjung Himal and Machhapuchhre. Your guide will name them; a free offline peak-finder app on your phone also helps settle arguments.
- Hot drinks at the top
Small stalls on the summit sell tea, coffee and hot chocolate for about NPR 150–300, which is welcome when the temperature is near freezing. Bring your own cup if you can, since disposable cups add to the litter that ACAP rangers carry down every week.
- The descent in daylight
Walking back down after sunrise, you finally see the forest you climbed through in the dark: moss-covered oaks, rhododendrons and long views back to Ghorepani's roofs. The descent takes 30–40 minutes, leaving time for breakfast before the day's walk to Tadapani.
Experiences in Poon Hill
How to reach Poon Hill
On foot
The only way up is on foot from Ghorepani (2,874 m): a stone and dirt staircase of about 336 m height gain that takes 45–60 minutes for most people, 30 minutes for fit walkers. The trail starts from the upper village by a ticket gate. Use a head torch, as the path is unlit.
Road
No road reaches Poon Hill. The nearest jeep access is Ulleri or Hile, ≈ 2.5–3.5 h from Pokhara on a rough road, followed by a 5–6 hour walk to Ghorepani and the climb next morning. From Kathmandu, add a 25-minute flight or a 6–8 hour drive to Pokhara.
Helicopter
Helicopters do not land on Poon Hill itself. Some Pokhara operators fly scenic loops past the ridge, and charters can land near Ghorepani in clear weather, usually before 10 am when cloud builds. These are rare requests; check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
There is nowhere to sleep on Poon Hill, so every visitor stays in Ghorepani and climbs before dawn. For the shortest climb, book a lodge in upper Ghorepani close to the ticket gate; this saves about 10 minutes compared with the lower village around the ACAP checkpoint. Lodges in the upper cluster also have terraces facing Dhaulagiri, useful if cloud spoils the sunrise and clears in the evening instead. Tadapani, 5–6 hours east, has a second group of simple lodges with a close view of Annapurna South for the following night.
Tips from our trip managers
- Leave Ghorepani by 5 am in October and November, or 5:15 am in December, to reach the top before sunrise.
- Wear gloves, a hat and a down jacket, as it can be −5 °C on the summit in winter and windy even in spring.
- Keep small notes ready for the entry ticket at the gate, which is a modest fee that changes from season to season.
- If the morning is cloudy, wait 20–30 minutes before giving up, because cloud often clears soon after sunrise.
- Carry spare camera batteries in an inside pocket, since cold drains them quickly at 3,210 m.
