Ilam is one of Nepal's biggest growers of large cardamom, the black, smoky spice used in garam masala, and much of it ends up in Indian markets. The crop grows under tree shade along stream gullies below the tea zone. On this visit we drive 30 to 45 minutes from the bazaar to a farming family, walk through their cardamom plot and see the bhatti, the wood-fired kiln that dries the pods and gives them their smoky taste.
The second stop is a small dairy or household that makes churpi, the hard cheese made by boiling buttermilk, pressing the curd and drying it in blocks. It is chewed slowly as a snack in the hills and sold widely across the border. You can try soft churpi, fresh paneer and milk tea, and buy a few blocks to take home.
Harvest of cardamom runs from late August to November, the best time for this trip. Outside that window you still see the plants and the kilns but not the drying. The visit depends on the family's work that day, so timings are flexible; we pay hosts directly for their time.
Good for
- Families
- Solo
- Photographers
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
When is cardamom harvested in Ilam?
Large cardamom is harvested from late August to November, depending on altitude. During those weeks you can see pods being picked and smoke-dried in kilns. Outside harvest the plants are still worth seeing, but the kilns are usually cold.
What is churpi?
Churpi is a hard cheese made from buttermilk in the eastern hills of Nepal and neighbouring Sikkim and Darjeeling. The soft version is cooked into curries and pickles; the hard version is dried into blocks and chewed for hours as a snack.
Is this visit suitable for vegetarians?
Yes. The snacks offered are milk tea, soft cheese, roasted corn or local bread. Tell us in advance if you avoid dairy so we can arrange alternatives with the host family.
