Chhukung began as a summer yak pasture, and in many ways it still is: a few stone huts, walled grazing areas and a dozen lodges on a gravel flat beside the Imja Khola. What makes it special is the setting. The south face of Lhotse and Nuptse rises more than 3,000 m directly above, a wall of fluted ice and rock that is one of the largest mountain faces on Earth. Ama Dablam, seen from behind, stands to the south-west, and Island Peak (6,189 m) sits up the valley to the east.
The walk from Dingboche is short and gentle, gaining about 320 m over 2.5 to 3 hours along the valley floor past herders' huts and moraine. That makes Chhukung a popular acclimatisation day trip from Dingboche, and the starting point for three bigger objectives: Island Peak, whose base camp is about 3 hours further up the valley; the Kongma La (5,535 m), the first and highest of the Three Passes; and Chhukung Ri, a rocky summit of about 5,550 m above the village.
Staying a night or two in Chhukung gives you the quietest, wildest part of the upper Khumbu without technical climbing. Lodges are basic and cold, but evenings are peaceful and the light on Lhotse at sunset is extraordinary. The upper valley also shows the effects of climate change clearly: Imja Tsho, a glacial lake that barely existed in the 1960s, now spreads over more than a square kilometre below Island Peak, held back by moraine.
What to see and do
- Lhotse south face
The south face of Lhotse, rising from about 5,000 m to 8,516 m, towers over Chhukung. It is one of the steepest and highest walls in the world, climbed only a handful of times, and fills the entire northern skyline from the lodges.
- Chhukung Ri summit
A trail climbs about 800 m from the village to the rocky summit of Chhukung Ri at around 5,550 m, almost as high as Kala Patthar. The view takes in Lhotse, Makalu, Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse and the Imja glacier.
- Island Peak base camp
Three hours up the valley, Island Peak base camp at about 5,087 m is a flat area beside the Imja and Lhotse glaciers. Even if you are not climbing, the walk shows the glacier landscape and the climbing route up the peak.
- Imja Tsho glacial lake
Below Island Peak, Imja Tsho has grown since the 1960s as the Imja Glacier retreated. In 2016 engineers lowered its level by about 3.4 m to reduce flood risk. It is a striking sign of glacier change in the Himalaya.
- Kongma La gateway
Chhukung is the start of the Kongma La crossing to Lobuche, at 5,535 m the highest of the Three Passes. Trekkers leave before dawn for a long day over a remote, rocky pass with frozen lakes at the top.
- Quiet nights at the head of the valley
Chhukung sees far fewer trekkers than Dingboche or Lobuche. Evenings are calm, the lodges small and friendly, and night skies over Lhotse are very dark and clear in October and November.
Experiences in Chhukung
How to reach Chhukung
On foot
From Dingboche, follow the Imja Khola east up the valley past Bibre: about 5 km, 2.5–3 hours, gaining roughly 320 m. From Lobuche, Chhukung can be reached over the Kongma La in 8–9 hours, the reverse of the Three Passes route.
Helicopter
There is no regular helipad service for visitors, but rescue helicopters can land near Chhukung in good weather. For evacuations, Dingboche and Pheriche are the usual pickup points.
Air
Fly to Lukla, about 35 minutes from Kathmandu, or 20 minutes from Ramechhap in peak months. From Lukla, walk via Namche, Tengboche and Dingboche in five days including the Namche rest day.
Where to stay
Chhukung has around a dozen teahouse lodges grouped on the gravel flat beside the river. Rooms are simple twins with thin walls and shared toilets, though a few lodges have added rooms with attached bathrooms. Dining rooms are heated in the evening with yak-dung or kerosene stoves, and meals are a standard trekking menu at high-altitude prices. Nights are very cold, often −10 °C or lower from October to March, so a four-season sleeping bag is essential. Island Peak climbers often spend one night here and then move to tented base camp.
Tips from our trip managers
- Do Chhukung as a day trip from Dingboche if you want acclimatisation without a night at 4,730 m.
- Start the Chhukung Ri climb by 6 am to reach the top before cloud and wind arrive.
- Carry extra snacks: lodge menus here are limited and prices are high.
- If crossing the Kongma La, leave by 5 am with a guide and at least 2 litres of water.
- Keep phone batteries in your sleeping bag at night, as cold drains them quickly.
