Hilsa sits at the very north-western corner of Nepal, on the Humla Karnali river where it crosses from the Tibetan plateau into Nepal. Across a suspension bridge lies Sher, the Tibetan side of the crossing, and beyond it the road to Purang. The village is little more than a handful of stone lodges, a police post, an immigration office and a helipad on a gravel terrace above the river, surrounded by bare brown slopes.
For pilgrims, Hilsa is a transit point rather than a destination. Helicopters shuttle groups from Simikot in the morning, four or five passengers per sortie, and once the whole group has landed it clears Nepali immigration, crosses the bridge and meets the Tibetan guide on the other side. On the return, the order reverses. If wind or cloud stops flights, groups may wait in Hilsa for hours or occasionally overnight.
Hilsa is reached by air or by a long trek or rough road from Simikot, and it has no medical facilities beyond basic first aid. Border opening hours, the motor road from Simikot and rules for Indian passport holders on this route have changed over recent seasons. Check current status before you travel.
What to see and do
- Helicopter over the Humla gorges
The 20–30 minute flight from Simikot follows the Humla Karnali north through deep gorges and past high villages, landing on the gravel helipad at Hilsa. It is a short but dramatic introduction to the trans-Himalaya.
- Walking into Tibet
After Nepali exit formalities, pilgrims walk across the bridge over the Karnali to the Tibetan side, where Chinese immigration checks passports against the group visa and scans every bag.
- Edge of two worlds
On the Nepal side are Hindu and Buddhist Humli villages, stone houses and terraced barley; across the river lies the wide, treeless plateau of Ngari. Standing on the bridge, the change is clear.
- Humla Karnali riverbank
The river, grey with glacial silt, roars past the village. While waiting for the rest of the group to arrive by helicopter, pilgrims can sit by the bank, take tea at a lodge and watch the shuttles come in.
- Gateway for Lucknow and Nepalgunj pilgrims
For pilgrims from Uttar Pradesh, Hilsa is reached via the Rupaidiha–Nepalgunj land border, flights to Simikot and a helicopter hop, avoiding Kathmandu altogether.
Experiences in Hilsa
How to reach Hilsa
Helicopter
Simikot–Hilsa takes about 20–30 minutes. Helicopters carry four or five passengers per sortie, depending on weight and conditions, and fly mainly in the morning. Groups land in several shuttles, so the first arrivals wait for the last.
Air
Flights reach Simikot from Nepalgunj in about 45 minutes by small aircraft, and Nepalgunj from Kathmandu in about 1 hour. Mountain weather often delays Simikot flights; itineraries need spare days.
Road
A motor road from Simikot towards Hilsa has been under construction for years. Sections are passable by jeep in dry weather, taking a long day, but it is rough, landslide-prone and not reliable for tourist groups. Check current status before you travel.
On foot
The classic trek from Simikot to Hilsa takes 4–5 days via the Humla Karnali valley and the Nara La (≈ 4,560 m). It needs a restricted area permit and a licensed guide.
Where to stay
Hilsa has only a few basic stone lodges with dorm or twin rooms, quilts, pit or simple toilets and dal bhat meals; there are no hotels. Most pilgrims never sleep here, landing in the morning and crossing into Tibet the same day. If weather strands a group, we use the best available lodge and carry sleeping bags. We do not list a specific property because standards vary year to year.
Tips from our trip managers
- Keep your passport, visa copy and warm jacket in your hand luggage on the helicopter; bags may arrive on a later shuttle.
- Pack light: helicopter payload limits are strict and excess baggage may be left in Simikot or Nepalgunj.
- Expect waiting time; the group crosses the border only once everyone has arrived.
- Carry snacks and water for the day, as lodges in Hilsa have limited supplies.
- Do not photograph border installations, police or soldiers on either side.
