We meet in the hotel lobby about an hour before sunrise, which means 5:15 am in November and closer to 6 am in January. With torches on, we walk through the sleeping old bazaar, past shuttered shops and the first people filling water at the stone spout, and then start up the stepped path that winds to the hilltop temple of Kali. The climb takes 30 to 45 minutes at a relaxed pace, with a few short stops where the terraces open up below.
The temple itself is a small, active shrine; local families come up with flowers and red powder, so keep your voice low near it and walk around rather than through any puja in progress. Just beyond it a grassy viewpoint faces north. As the sky lightens you can trace the range from Ganesh Himal on the far left through Langtang Lirung, Dorje Lakpa and the Jugal peaks to the bulky twin summit of Gauri Shankar. On the best mornings the Indrawati and Sun Koshi valleys below fill with white cloud.
We stay about 30 minutes, long enough for the colour to move from pink to gold to white, then walk back down a different lane through the farms on the east side of town. You are back at the hotel for breakfast by 7:30 or 8 am. In April and May haze often softens the peaks, and from June to September they are usually hidden, so we only promise this walk with confidence from October to March.
Good for
- Couples
- Families
- Photographers
- First-timers
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
How hard is the climb to the Kali temple in Dhulikhel?
It is easy to moderate. The path is mostly stone steps and a dirt trail, climbing for 30 to 45 minutes at a relaxed pace. Anyone who can manage several flights of stairs with rests will be fine. Children from about six years upward usually enjoy it. The steps are uneven in the dark, so bring a torch and shoes with grip rather than sandals.
What time is sunrise in Dhulikhel?
Sunrise is around 5:10 am in June, near 6:15 am in November and close to 6:55 am in January. We leave the hotel about an hour beforehand so you reach the viewpoint 15 to 20 minutes early, when the first pink light hits Gauri Shankar and Langtang. Your guide confirms the exact time the evening before.
Can we drive to the Kali temple viewpoint instead of walking?
Partly. A rough road reaches close to the top, and we can arrange a car for guests who cannot manage the steps, leaving you a short final walk. It is not as pleasant as walking up through the old town, and the road can be rutted after rain, but it works well for seniors and families with toddlers.
