After sunrise and breakfast we leave Nagarkot at around 8:30 am and follow the ridge west on dirt roads and footpaths. The first hour runs through pine forest and past small settlements on the shoulder of the hill, with the Himalaya still visible behind you on clear mornings. The route then drops gently towards Telkot, a ridge-top village where the road up from Bhaktapur meets the trail, and where we usually stop for tea at a local shop and one last look back at the peaks.
From Telkot the path follows the crest of the ridge through terraced fields of rice, millet, mustard or wheat, depending on the season. Farmhouses here are red brick or mud-plastered, with maize hanging from the eaves to dry in autumn. There is little traffic, and children walking to school often fall into step for a while. The final hour drops through a patch of forest and village lanes into Changunarayan, which sits at 1,541 m at the end of the ridge. Walking time is 4–5 hours, almost all downhill, with a few short climbs.
At Changunarayan we visit the two-roof temple to Vishnu, rebuilt in 1702 on a site in use since at least 464 CE, the date of King Manadeva's stone inscription beside the temple. Foreigners pay around NPR 300 to enter the temple area; check current status before you travel. After lunch in the village, our car drives you about 30 minutes to Bhaktapur or an hour to Kathmandu. Good walking shoes and knees in reasonable shape are all you need, and we grade it easy to moderate.
Good for
- Couples
- Families
- Solo
- Photographers
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
How difficult is the Nagarkot to Changunarayan hike?
Easy to moderate. The route covers about 12 km in 4–5 hours and is mostly downhill, losing around 630 m from Nagarkot at 2,175 m to Changunarayan at 1,541 m. The long descent can be hard on knees, so trekking poles help. Anyone who can walk comfortably for half a day on uneven paths will manage it.
Do I need a guide for the Nagarkot to Changunarayan trail?
We recommend one. The trail mixes dirt roads, field paths and village lanes with few signs, and several junctions look alike. A guide keeps you on the ridge route, explains the villages and the temple, and coordinates with the driver who meets you at Changunarayan. Independent walkers should carry a phone with offline maps downloaded.
Can children do the hike from Nagarkot?
Children from about eight who walk regularly usually manage it well, since the route is mostly downhill with tea stops and a road never far away. Younger children can walk the first section to Telkot and then ride in our support car to Changunarayan. Bring snacks, water and sun hats, as there is little shade on the lower ridge.
