The Banganga flows past the western edge of Tilaurakot, and in the dry winter months it shrinks to a broad, shallow stream between sandbanks. From the ruins, a field path leads down to the bank in about 15 minutes. Villagers bring buffalo to drink and wash clothes on the stones, and egrets and pond herons work the shallows.
We walk back along field edges planted with mustard, wheat or lentils depending on the season, past small mango groves and mud-and-brick farmhouses. It is a simple outing, but it shows the landscape in which the Shakya city grew, and late light on the yellow mustard in January is good for photographs.
The walk is flat and about 3 km in total. Avoid it in the monsoon, when the river rises and the field paths turn to mud. Carry mosquito repellent in the evening and respect private fields by staying on the bunds.
Good for
- Photographers
- Couples
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
Can we swim in the Banganga at Tilaurakot?
We do not recommend it. The river is shallow and muddy in winter and fast and silty in the monsoon, and it is used by villagers for washing and by livestock. Enjoy it from the bank instead, ideally in the late afternoon when the light is soft.
Is it safe to walk around Tilaurakot in the evening?
Yes, the area is rural and calm, and villagers are friendly to visitors. Return to the car before dark, since there is no lighting on field paths. Our driver waits at the site entrance, and the drive back to Lumbini takes 45 minutes to an hour.
What crops will we see around Tilaurakot?
From December to February the fields are green with wheat and yellow with mustard, with lentils in some plots. Rice is planted with the monsoon in June and July and harvested in October and November. Mango groves are common, fruiting in May and June.
