Start at the kani, the gateway chorten at the edge of the village, and follow the lanes between houses with stacked firewood and drying yak dung on the walls. Your guide can explain the carved mani stones, many inscribed with the mantra om mani padme hum, and why you always pass them on your right. In autumn the barley and buckwheat harvest is spread on rooftops, and the work of threshing goes on in courtyards.
The gompa above the village belongs to the Nyingma tradition followed across Nubri. If a lama or caretaker is present you may be allowed inside to see the murals and butter lamps; take off your shoes, keep your voice low and leave a small offering of 100 to 200 rupees in the box. Photography inside is often not allowed, so ask first.
Village life here runs on a short summer. Families move herds up to high pastures from June, come down in October and many older residents spend the coldest months in Kathmandu. A short visit to a local home for salt butter tea, arranged by your guide, gives you a chance to ask questions and to see a traditional kitchen with its central stove.
Good for
- Families
- Seniors
- Couples
- Pilgrims
Questions travellers ask
Can tourists enter the gompa in Samagaun?
Usually yes, when a caretaker or lama is present to open it. Remove your shoes, keep hats off, walk clockwise and do not point your feet towards the altar. A small donation of 100 to 200 rupees is customary. Photography inside is often not permitted, so ask your guide to check before you take out a camera.
What language do people speak in Samagaun?
People speak Nubri, a Tibetan language closely related to the speech of Kyirong in Tibet and to the Tsum language. Most adults also speak Nepali, and lodge owners speak enough English to handle rooms and meals. A few words such as tashi delek, a Tibetan greeting, are always welcome.
Is it respectful to photograph local people in Samagaun?
Ask first, every time, and accept a no. Many older residents prefer not to be photographed, and people working in the fields or at prayer should be left alone. Landscapes, chortens and mani walls are fine to photograph from the outside. Your guide can help you ask politely in Nepali or Nubri.
