Samagaun, also written Sama Gaon or Sama, sits on a broad glacial terrace above the Budhi Gandaki at 3,530 m. The houses are low stone buildings with wooden shingle or tin roofs, built close together against the wind, and the fields around them grow barley, buckwheat and potatoes in one short summer season. Manaslu rises directly to the west. On a clear morning the summit, at 8,163 m the eighth-highest mountain on Earth, stands more than 4,600 m above the village roofs.
The people of Samagaun are Nubri, a Tibetan Buddhist community whose language is close to the speech of Kyirong across the border. You will see long mani walls carved with prayers, chortens at the village gates, prayer flags on every roof and a gompa above the fields. Yak and dzo herds come down to the lower pastures in autumn. In the climbing season, from late August to early October, expedition teams pass through on the way to Manaslu Base Camp, and the village feels like a small mountaineering town.
For trekkers, Samagaun is the place to stop and adjust. You arrive from Lho after a short 3 to 4 hour walk and should sleep two nights here before going higher to Samdo (3,875 m) and Dharamsala (4,460 m). The rest day is not idle: most groups climb to Birendra Tal, Pungyen Gompa or part of the way to base camp, then sleep low again. This climb-high, sleep-low pattern is the best protection you have before Larkya La at 5,106 m.
What to see and do
- Manaslu from the village fields
The summit of Manaslu, 8,163 m, fills the western sky above Samagaun. Early morning, before cloud builds around 10 am, the light hits the east face first. Walk to the edge of the barley fields below the gompa for an open view with chortens in the foreground.
- Birendra Tal glacier lake
A grey-green lake fed by the Manaslu Glacier, about 30 minutes on foot from the lodges. Ice falls from the glacier snout into the water in late afternoon. It makes an easy first outing on arrival day and a good test of how your body copes at altitude.
- Pungyen Gompa hike
A half-day climb to the site of Pungyen Gompa, close to 4,000 m, on a ridge facing the Manaslu Glacier. The original monastery was destroyed by an avalanche in 1953. The walk is one of the best acclimatisation hikes in the region and the views of the Manaslu icefall are close.
- Gateway to Manaslu Base Camp
Fit trekkers with an extra day can climb to Manaslu Base Camp at about 4,800 m. It is a steep 1,270 m ascent that takes 5 to 6 hours up and 3 hours down, with views over Birendra Tal, the glacier and the peaks of the Tibet border.
- Nubri Buddhist village life
Mani walls, prayer wheels turned by passers-by, women weaving on back-strap looms and yaks being loaded for the trip to Samdo. Samagaun is a working village first and a trekking stop second, and walking the lanes with your guide is the best way to understand Nubri life.
- Helicopter access
Samagaun has a recognised helicopter landing area, which makes it the turn-around point for Manaslu heli tours and for treks that finish by flying out instead of crossing Larkya La. Flights to Kathmandu take about an hour in good morning weather.
Experiences in Samagaun
How to reach Samagaun
Road
Jeeps run from Kathmandu via Dhading Besi and Arughat to Machha Khola (930 m), about 160 km in 8 to 9 hours. In the dry season some jeeps continue to Jagat. Beyond that there is no road to Samagaun; road works are pushing north, so check current status before you travel.
On foot
From Machha Khola it is 5 to 6 walking days to Samagaun via Jagat, Deng or Bihi Phedi, Namrung and Lho. The final stage from Lho is short: about 8 km and 3 to 4 hours with 350 m of gain, past Shyala village and its view of Himal Chuli and Ngadi Chuli.
Helicopter
A helicopter from Kathmandu reaches Samagaun in about 60 minutes. Flights leave early, often 6:30 to 7:30 am, because cloud and wind build by late morning. Landing requires the Manaslu restricted area permit for each foreign passenger; check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Samagaun has the largest choice of teahouse lodges on the upper circuit, spread along the main lane between the school and the gompa. Rooms are twin, with wooden beds, foam mattresses and blankets; bring a warm sleeping bag because nights fall well below freezing from November. Hotel Norling and the Manaslu Guest House across the lane from it are long-running stops used by trekking groups and, in autumn, by Manaslu expedition teams. Most lodges have a heated dining room, solar or electric hot showers for a fee and paid Wi-Fi or mobile data, but power and water can fail in cold snaps. In peak October nights we book ahead.
Tips from our trip managers
- Plan two nights here, not one, even on a 12-day itinerary; the second night is your main acclimatisation before Larkya La.
- Go out early: Manaslu is usually clear from sunrise until about 10 am, then cloud rolls up the valley.
- Carry Nepali rupees in cash, because there are no ATMs and few lodges take cards.
- Walk clockwise around mani walls and chortens, and ask before photographing people or the inside of the gompa.
- If you have a headache that painkillers do not fix, stay an extra night here rather than going up to Samdo.
