From Ghami the trail climbs gently north-east across open slopes to Dhakmar, a village under sheer red cliffs. Their colour, a deep rust streaked with ochre, comes from iron-rich sediments, though villagers prefer the story of Guru Rinpoche killing a demon here. Caves are carved high in the cliff face, some once used as homes, tombs or meditation cells, and swallows wheel in front of them.
From Dhakmar it is around 2 hours more over a ridge to Ghar Gompa, also called Lo Gekar, in a quiet side valley. Local tradition dates its founding to the 8th century, when Guru Rinpoche passed through on his way to Tibet. The prayer hall walls are covered with hundreds of painted stone tablets showing deities and saints, and a caretaker lights butter lamps for visitors. Leave a donation; it pays for upkeep.
On the full return route from Lo Manthang, treks cross the Chogo La (about 4,210 m) to reach Ghar Gompa and then descend to Dhakmar for the night. From Ghami as a loop, plan 5–6 hours and about 500 m of ascent and descent. Either way, this stretch is quieter than the main trail and the road, and the scenery is among Mustang's finest.
Good for
- Photographers
- Couples
- Solo
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
Is Ghar Gompa the oldest monastery in Nepal?
Local tradition says Ghar Gompa, or Lo Gekar, was founded in the 8th century by Guru Rinpoche, which would make it one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in the Himalaya. Historians debate the date, and the present buildings are later. Either way, it is a revered pilgrimage site with remarkable painted stone tablets.
Why are the Dhakmar cliffs red?
Geologists explain the colour by iron oxides in the sedimentary rock, eroded into steep fluted faces by wind and water. Local legend says the cliffs were stained by the blood of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche, whose intestines became the long mani wall near Ghami. Both stories make it a memorable stop.
Can jeep travellers visit Ghar Gompa?
Yes. A jeep track reaches near Ghar Gompa and Dhakmar from the Lo Manthang–Ghami road, so jeep tours can include a visit with some extra time and a short walk. Ask when booking, as it adds 2–3 hours to the drive. Walking the full route on foot is more rewarding if you are fit.
