We leave Syangboche (about 3,475 m) after an early breakfast and climb past cave openings and chortens to the Yamda La, a pass at around 3,850 m. The trail contours above the Ghiling valley, passing the village of Ghiling with its red gompa, before rising steadily to the Nyi La. The ascent is long but not steep, and the views widen with every step.
At about 4,010 m, the Nyi La is the highest point on the classic Upper Mustang trek. Prayer flags whip in the wind, and on a clear morning you can see south to the Annapurna and Nilgiri peaks and north over the brown hills of Lo. Keep the stop short if it is windy; it gets cold fast. Then the path drops into the bowl of Ghami, its fields startlingly green after the bare slopes.
Total walking is 5–6 hours with about 550 m of climbing and 500 m of descent. The road follows a similar line, so you may share parts of the route with jeeps; our guides use footpaths where they exist. Arrive in Ghami by early afternoon to rest, wash and watch the village life before dinner.
Good for
- Solo
- Couples
- Groups
- Photographers
Questions travellers ask
How high is the Nyi La?
The Nyi La is about 4,010 m, though some maps show slightly different figures. It is the highest point on the standard route to Lo Manthang. Treks returning via Ghar Gompa cross the higher Chogo La, about 4,210 m. Both are approached gradually, so most trekkers manage them without serious trouble.
Is the Upper Mustang trek hard?
It is graded moderate. Days are 5–7 hours with ascents of 300–600 m, and the highest passes are the Nyi La (about 4,010 m) and Chogo La (about 4,210 m). There is no technical terrain, but the altitude, dust, wind and strong sun make it tiring. Reasonable fitness and some hiking experience are enough.
Will we walk on the road in Upper Mustang?
Partly. The road from Jomsom to Lo Manthang follows the old trade route in places. Good agencies use older footpaths and alternative trails on the east bank, via Tetang, Dhi or Yara, to avoid it as much as possible. Expect some sections where you share the road with jeeps and motorbikes.
