Begnas is what Phewa was before Lakeside filled with hotels. The lake stretches in a long, irregular shape among low green hills in the south-east of the Pokhara valley, with rice terraces running down to the water and forest on the far shore. Its water level is regulated by a small dam built in 1988 on the outlet stream, and much of the shoreline is used for cage fish farming and irrigation, so it feels like working countryside rather than a resort.
The approach is through Begnas Bazaar, a small market at the lake's southern end where buses from Pokhara terminate. From the dam, wooden boats wait to take visitors out on the water, and a few lakeside restaurants grill fresh tilapia and carp. On clear mornings Machhapuchhre and the Annapurnas rise behind the northern hills, reflected in the still water. Weekends bring Pokhara families for picnics and boating, but on weekdays the shore is quiet and you may share the water with only a handful of boats.
Just over the ridge to the east lies Rupa Lake, smaller and even quieter, and the narrow ridge between them, Panchabhaiya Danda, makes one of the best short walks in the valley. Begnas works as a half-day trip from Pokhara for families who have already done Phewa, as an easy escape from Lakeside's traffic, or as the setting for a slow lakeside afternoon on a honeymoon or yoga retreat. A morning here pairs well with a flight arrival or departure, as the airport is on the same side of the city.
What to see and do
- Rowing on still water
Begnas is calmer and less crowded than Phewa, and boats from the dam area are cheaper. Row out for an hour towards the northern shore, where forest comes down to the water and kingfishers and egrets hunt along the edge.
- Panchabhaiya Danda ridge
A narrow ridge separates Begnas from Rupa Lake. A road and footpath climb onto it in about 30 minutes from the bazaar, giving views of both lakes at once with the Annapurna range behind. It is one of the best easy viewpoints near Pokhara.
- Rupa Lake
The smaller sister lake lies in a quiet basin east of the ridge, partly fringed with reeds and wetland. It has very few visitors, a community-run fishery and good birdwatching in winter, when migrant ducks arrive.
- Fresh fish lunches
Restaurants by the dam and in Begnas Bazaar serve fish caught or farmed in the lake, fried whole or cooked in a spicy Nepali curry. Order at the start of your boat ride and lunch is ready when you return.
- Village life on the shore
Paths along the western shore pass farmhouses, buffalo sheds and terraces where families plant rice in June and harvest in October. It is an easy way to see rural Kaski without driving far from the city.
Experiences in Begnas Lake
How to reach Begnas Lake
Road
Begnas Bazaar is about 15 km from Lakeside along the Prithvi Highway east and the Begnas road, 30–40 minutes by taxi or private car. A taxi round trip with waiting time costs roughly NPR 2,500–3,500. Local buses run from Pokhara's Prithvi Chowk and take about an hour. From the airport the drive is about 25 minutes.
On foot
From Begnas Bazaar, the walk onto Panchabhaiya Danda between Begnas and Rupa lakes takes about 30 minutes uphill. You can continue along the ridge and down to Rupa's shore, a loop of 2–3 hours at an easy pace.
Where to stay
Most visitors stay in Pokhara and visit Begnas as a half-day trip, so our packages base you at Lakeside or Damside in hotels such as Hotel Barahi or Temple Tree Resort & Spa. Around the lake there are a few small resorts, eco-lodges and community homestays on the hillsides and along the shore, suited to travellers who want silence, birdsong and a lake view without Lakeside's traffic. Standards vary from simple to comfortable, so we confirm the current properties when you book. Couples looking for a luxury hillside retreat east of the city can choose Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge instead.
Tips from our trip managers
- Combine Begnas with the drive to or from Pokhara airport, which lies on the same side of the city.
- Order your fish lunch before going out on the water, as frying a whole fish takes 30–40 minutes.
- Visit in the morning for clear mountain views and calm water; afternoon wind can make rowing harder.
- Bring binoculars from November to February, when migrant ducks and waders gather on Rupa Lake.
- Carry cash, as small restaurants and boat operators at Begnas rarely accept cards.
