The Annapurna Sanctuary is a high, oval basin about 15 km across, sealed on almost every side by a ring of peaks. Its only entrance is the narrow gorge of the Modi Khola, squeezed between Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre. Annapurna Base Camp lies at 4,130 m on the western side of the basin, on a grassy shelf above the moraine of the South Annapurna Glacier. Standing at the lodges you turn a full circle and see ice and rock on every side.
The south face of Annapurna I (8,091 m) rises about 4,000 m straight above the camp. A British expedition led by Chris Bonington climbed that face in 1970, one of the landmark ascents of the era. Clockwise from it stand Annapurna South (7,219 m), Hiunchuli (6,441 m), Machhapuchhre (6,993 m), Gangapurna (7,455 m) and Annapurna III. Machhapuchhre is sacred to local Gurung communities and has been closed to climbing since a 1957 attempt stopped short of the summit.
Most trekkers arrive on the Annapurna Base Camp trek, walking up the Modi Khola gorge from Chhomrong through Sinuwa, Bamboo, Dovan, Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp. Our standard 11-day trek starts at ₹78,000 or US$910 per person, and an 8-day version that walks up and flies back starts at ₹1,12,000 or US$1,310. For those short of time or unable to trek, a morning helicopter from Pokhara lands here in about 25–30 minutes.
What to see and do
- Sunrise inside the ring
At dawn the summit of Annapurna I turns gold first, then light spreads round the ring to Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Gangapurna while the camp itself sits in deep blue shadow. Machhapuchhre's summit stands black against the brightening sky to the east. Be outside by 5:45 am in October.
- Annapurna I south face
The 8,091 m summit of Annapurna I, the first 8,000 m peak ever climbed, in 1950, towers about 4,000 m above the lodges. Its south face, climbed by Bonington's team in 1970, is one of the biggest walls in the Himalaya. Avalanches thunder down it on warm afternoons.
- Memorial chortens and prayer flags
Just above the lodges, small stone chortens and plaques draped in prayer flags remember climbers who died on Annapurna, including the Kazakhstani mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev, killed in an avalanche on the mountain on Christmas Day 1997. It is a quiet, sobering place to stand at sunset.
- Machhapuchhre from the other side
From Pokhara Machhapuchhre looks like a lone pyramid. From inside the sanctuary you see its western flank and twin summits, the 'fish tail' that gives the mountain its name. It remains unclimbed by local agreement, and the view from Machhapuchhre Base Camp is closer still.
- The moraine viewpoint
A short walk north-west from the lodges brings you to the crest of the lateral moraine. Below lies the debris-covered South Annapurna Glacier, grey and cracked, with ice cliffs and meltwater pools. The edge is loose, so stay well back from the drop.
- Helicopter landings from Pokhara
Morning helicopters from Pokhara reach the sanctuary in 25–30 minutes, flying up the Modi Khola gorge between Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre. Flights land on the flat ground near the lodges and usually allow 15–20 minutes on the ground before cloud or altitude limits make it time to leave.
Experiences in Annapurna Base Camp
How to reach Annapurna Base Camp
On foot
From Pokhara drive about 3 hours to Siwai or Ghandruk, then walk 4–5 days via Chhomrong (2,170 m), Sinuwa, Bamboo (2,310 m), Dovan, Himalaya (2,920 m), Deurali (3,230 m) and Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3,700 m). Walking days are 5–7 hours. The return to the road takes 2–3 days.
Helicopter
Charter or shared helicopters fly Pokhara–ABC in 25–30 minutes each way, usually leaving between 6:30 and 9 am before cloud builds. At 4,130 m helicopters carry fewer passengers than at sea level, so larger groups may be shuttled. Flights are cancelled in poor visibility. Check current status before you travel.
Road
No road enters the sanctuary. The nearest jeep access is Siwai or Ghandruk, ≈ 3 h from Pokhara, with jeep tracks pushing slightly further up the Modi Khola each year. From any road head it is still at least four days' walk to Annapurna Base Camp.
Where to stay
Annapurna Base Camp has a small cluster of teahouse lodges built of stone with tin roofs, sitting together on the shelf above the glacier. Rooms are basic twins and multi-bed dormitories with thick blankets; toilets are shared and water can freeze overnight. In October and early April lodges fill quickly and late arrivals may sleep in the dining hall. Dal bhat costs about NPR 900–1,200. Machhapuchhre Base Camp, two hours below, has a second cluster of lodges and is a sensible place to sleep if anyone feels unwell.
Tips from our trip managers
- Sleep at Machhapuchhre Base Camp first if you climbed from Deurali feeling tired, and walk up to ABC for sunrise.
- Bring a four-season sleeping bag, as nights at 4,130 m fall to −10 °C in late autumn and colder in winter.
- Ask at the Chhomrong checkpoint about avalanche risk between Deurali and MBC before you start the final climb.
- Carry water purification tablets or a filter, since boiled water costs NPR 200–300 a litre at the base camp.
- On a heli tour, walk slowly and avoid exertion on the ground, because you arrive from 822 m without acclimatising.
