Chhomrong is built on a hillside so steep that the village is mostly staircase. Lodges and houses step down from a ridge at about 2,200 m towards the Chhomrong Khola, linked by hundreds of stone steps that every ABC trekker remembers. Above the rooftops Annapurna South (7,219 m) fills the sky to the north-west, Hiunchuli (6,441 m) beside it, while Machhapuchhre (6,993 m) rises to the north-east, its fishtail summit sharp against the morning sky.
Beyond Chhomrong there are no farming villages, only lodges built for trekkers at Sinuwa, Bamboo, Dovan, Himalaya, Deurali and the two base camps. The village is therefore the trail's last real supply point, with a few small shops selling chocolate, batteries and toiletries, an ACAP checkpoint where permits are registered, and the office of the lodge management committee that fixes menu prices further up the valley. By local custom, lodges above Chhomrong do not serve meat, out of respect for the sanctuary.
Most itineraries reach Chhomrong on the third or fourth day of the Annapurna Base Camp trek, coming from Ghandruk via Komrong Danda or from the road at Siwai through Jhinu Danda. From here the sanctuary is two to three days' walk, climbing almost 2,000 m to 4,130 m. On the way down, many groups treat themselves to a night at Jhinu Danda, an hour below, for a soak in the riverside hot springs.
What to see and do
- Annapurna South at close range
From Chhomrong's upper terraces Annapurna South (7,219 m) looks almost overhead, its ice ridges about 10 km away. Morning is clearest; by noon cloud often wraps the summit. Lodges at the top of the village have the best angle, and some dining halls have windows facing straight at it.
- The Chhomrong staircase
From the upper village a stone staircase drops about 300 m to the suspension bridge over the Chhomrong Khola, then climbs again towards Sinuwa. It is the most talked-about stretch of the ABC trail. Going up it on the return, with tired legs, is the real test.
- Chocolate cake at Chhomrong Cottage
Chhomrong Cottage, a family teahouse near the top of the village, has served its chocolate cake to trekkers for decades. Coming down from the sanctuary after days of dal bhat and noodles, a slice with lemon tea is a small reward most people look forward to all week.
- Jhinu Danda hot springs
Below the village, at about 1,780 m, Jhinu Danda's hot springs are a 15–20 minute walk down from the lodges to pools beside the Modi Khola. The water is pleasantly warm rather than scalding. Most trekkers soak on the way down, easing legs after the descent from 4,130 m.
- ACAP checkpoint and trail news
The ACAP checkpoint at Chhomrong records trekkers heading into the sanctuary and is the place to hear current trail news. Rangers and lodge owners post notices on avalanche risk between Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp, closures and lodge availability. Ask here before you continue.
- Gurung village life
Below the lodge strip, Chhomrong is a working Gurung village with terraces of millet and potatoes, buffalo sheds and a small school. Families here have run trekking lodges since the 1970s, and many have relatives in the Gurkha regiments or working abroad.
Experiences in Chhomrong
How to reach Chhomrong
Road
Pokhara to Siwai takes ≈ 3 h by jeep via Nayapul and the Modi Khola valley. In recent years jeep tracks have pushed further up towards New Bridge and the Jhinu area, shortening the walk, but they are rough and often blocked in monsoon. Check current status before you travel.
On foot
From Siwai (≈ 1,250 m) walk via New Bridge to Jhinu Danda (1,780 m) in 4–5 h, then climb 1–1.5 h to Chhomrong. From Ghandruk, the route over Komrong Danda takes 5–6 h. From Landruk along the east bank of the Modi Khola, allow a full day. Coming down from ABC, Chhomrong is usually reached from Bamboo in 4–5 h.
Helicopter
Chhomrong has a helipad used mainly for rescues from the sanctuary and for trekkers cutting the return short. A charter from Pokhara takes about 15 minutes. Flights depend on clear morning weather and are arranged through the operator or your agency; check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Chhomrong's lodges are spread along the staircase, so the choice is between upper and lower village. Upper Chhomrong, near the ridge where the trail from Ghandruk arrives, has the best views of Annapurna South and a shorter climb out on the return. Chhomrong Cottage is here, the family teahouse known for its chocolate cake. Lower Chhomrong sits closer to the river and saves steps on the way up to Sinuwa next morning. Rooms are simple twins with shared bathrooms; hot showers run on solar or gas. Many groups stay at Jhinu Danda on the return for the hot springs.
Tips from our trip managers
- Buy any last snacks, toilet paper and batteries in Chhomrong, as prices rise sharply higher up the valley.
- Check the notice board at the ACAP checkpoint for avalanche warnings and trail diversions above Deurali.
- Book Chhomrong for your return night too, since the climb back up from the river is easier after a rest.
- Leave spare kit at your Chhomrong lodge if you will return the same way, so you carry less to the base camp.
- Eat vegetarian from Chhomrong upward, in line with the local custom that keeps meat off menus in the sanctuary.
