Tarboche stands on a flat area at the mouth of the Lha Chu valley, at about 4,675 m. The tall pole is wrapped in prayer flags that radiate out to the ground in a great tent of colour. Nearby is a stupa with an opening at its base, known to Indian pilgrims as Yam Dwar, the gate of Yama, the god of death. Passing through it is said to free the pilgrim from fear of death.
Every year on the full moon of the fourth Tibetan month, Saga Dawa, the old pole is lowered, the flags replaced and the pole raised again before crowds of pilgrims. Tibetans watch whether it stands perfectly upright, which is read as a good omen for the year. Visitors on the Saga Dawa departure see the ceremony; others see the pole on day one of the kora.
Most groups pass Tarboche by eco-bus on the morning they start walking. If you are not doing the kora, ask your guide to stop here on the Ashtapad trip. Walk clockwise around the pole and stupa, and leave khata or flags if you wish.
Good for
- Pilgrims
- Photographers
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
What is Yam Dwar at Kailash?
Yam Dwar, the gate of Yama, is the name Indian pilgrims give to the small stupa with a passage near the Tarboche flagpole, where the Kailash parikrama begins. Pilgrims walk through it before turning north into the Lha Chu valley. It is about 7 km west of Darchen and usually reached by eco-bus.
When is the Tarboche flagpole raised?
The pole is lowered and raised again each year on Saga Dawa, the full moon of the fourth Tibetan lunar month, which usually falls in late May or June. The exact date changes yearly, so check current status before you travel. Our Saga Dawa departure is timed for the ceremony.
Can I visit Tarboche without doing the parikrama?
Yes. Tarboche and Yam Dwar are on the road a short distance from Darchen, so pilgrims staying behind can visit with their guide. Access is usually by eco-bus. Permits for the area are covered by your Tibet travel documents.
