Bhaktapur, called Khwopa in the Newar language, was the capital of the whole Kathmandu Valley under the early Malla kings until the late 15th century, when the valley split into three rival kingdoms. Its wealth came from the trade route to Tibet, and it shows in the carving on every window frame and temple strut. About 80,000 people live in the municipality today, many of them farmers who still dry rice and chillies on the squares and carry loads on shoulder poles. The town feels lived in rather than preserved, and that is the reason to come.
The old town follows the line of the trade road from west to east, linking three main squares. Durbar Square holds the royal palace with its 55 Windows and the gilded Golden Gate of 1754. Taumadhi Square, a few minutes to the south-east, has the Nyatapola, at about 30 m the tallest pagoda in Nepal, built in 1702 and still standing after the earthquakes of 1934 and 2015. Dattatreya Square in the east is the oldest quarter, with woodcarving workshops and the Peacock Window. Between them run lanes of brick houses, wells and stone water spouts.
Much of what you see is careful restoration. A German-funded project from 1974 to 1986 rebuilt drains, paved lanes and repaired temples, and the municipality has used entry fees for upkeep ever since, which is why foreigners pay NPR 1,800 (about US$ 15) and SAARC and Chinese nationals NPR 500; check current status before you travel. The 2015 earthquake brought down the Vatsala Durga temple, since rebuilt, and damaged many houses. The town is busiest in mid-April for Bisket Jatra, the New Year chariot festival, and in August or September for Gai Jatra.
What to see and do
- Nyatapola and Taumadhi Square
Nepal's tallest pagoda rises about 30 m on five plinths, each guarded by a pair of stone figures: legendary wrestlers at the bottom, then elephants, lions, griffins and two goddesses at the top. Climb the steps at dusk and look across Taumadhi to the three-roofed Bhairavnath temple and the terrace cafés around it.
- Durbar Square and the Golden Gate
The Golden Gate of 1754, gilded copper set in red brick, leads towards the palace courtyards and the Taleju temple, which only Hindus may enter. Beside it stands the Palace of 55 Windows, and across the square the rebuilt stone Vatsala Durga temple and the big Taleju bell rung at morning worship.
- Pottery Square
A few minutes south of Durbar Square, potters throw pots on heavy wheels in the open, and rows of drying pots, money boxes and oil lamps cover the paving. Mornings from October to May are busiest, because the clay needs sun to dry before it is fired in kilns of straw and ash.
- Dattatreya Square and the Peacock Window
The eastern square is the oldest part of town, centred on the Dattatreya temple, traditionally dated to 1427. In a lane beside the Pujari Math, a carved latticed window shows a peacock fanning its tail, the best-known single piece of Newar woodwork in the valley. Woodcarving shops line the square.
- Juju dhau, the king of curds
Bhaktapur's sweet, thick curd is made from buffalo milk set overnight in unglazed clay bowls that draw out moisture and leave a firm, creamy top. Small shops near Taumadhi and Durbar Square sell it by the bowl; eat it on the spot with a wooden spoon and hand the bowl back.
- Bisket Jatra in April
Nepali New Year in mid-April brings Bhaktapur's biggest festival, nine days in which the upper and lower halves of town fight a tug-of-war over the giant chariot of Bhairav in Taumadhi Square. A tall ceremonial pole is raised and then pulled down to mark the new year. Dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel.
Experiences in Bhaktapur
How to reach Bhaktapur
Road
Bhaktapur is about 13 km east of central Kathmandu, 40 minutes to an hour by car via Koteshwor and Thimi, depending on traffic. Our private cars drop you at the western entrance near Siddha Pokhari or on the Taumadhi side. Local buses leave the Ratna Park area through the day and take about an hour; taxis cost more but save time and can wait.
Air
Tribhuvan International Airport is only about 10 km away, a 30–45 minute transfer, so Bhaktapur works well as a first or last night. On a short trip it is a calmer base than central Kathmandu, and an evening arrival still leaves time for dinner on a terrace above Taumadhi Square.
On foot
From Changunarayan a path drops about 140 m through villages and fields to Bhaktapur in roughly 1.5–2 hours, a good way to arrive after visiting the temple. Fit walkers can also come all the way down from Nagarkot in 5–6 hours via Telkot and Changunarayan, with our car carrying the bags.
Where to stay
We like a night inside the old town, where small family-run guesthouses occupy restored Newar brick houses around Durbar Square, Taumadhi and Dattatreya. Rooms are simple and often up steep wooden stairs, but rooftop terraces look over the pagodas and, on clear winter mornings, north to the Himalaya. Cars cannot reach most of them, so pack a bag you can carry 200–400 m along brick lanes. Travellers who want larger rooms and parking stay in modern hotels on the edge of town towards Suryabinayak or Thimi, or base themselves in Nagarkot, about 20 km up the hill, and visit Bhaktapur for the day.
Tips from our trip managers
- Keep your entry ticket for the whole visit, since staff check it at the edges of the old town, and ask at the counter whether it can be extended if you stay several days.
- Arrive before 9 am or after 4 pm to see the squares at work, with farmers spreading grain and far fewer day-trip groups.
- Walk clockwise around shrines and do not step over the small offerings of rice and flowers left on the paving each morning.
- Buy pottery and woodcarving direct from the workshops and ask for wrapping, as small pieces survive a suitcase better than tall vases.
- Wear shoes with grip, because brick paving and temple steps turn slippery after rain and in the dew of winter mornings.
