We pick you up in Thamel at about 6 am, or walk the 3 km with you if you prefer, and start up the east stairway as the city wakes. At the base, three large painted statues of the Buddha mark the gate, and a few steps on a line of stone animals, the mounts of the five Buddhas, guards the path. Newar Buddhists and Tibetans climb at this hour with offerings of rice, flowers and incense, and many will greet you on the way.
The 365 steps rise roughly 70 m. We take it slowly, pausing at the small shrines and chaityas set into the slope, and you will meet the hill's monkeys coming down from the trees to warm themselves on the stones. At the top a huge gilded vajra sits on a drum carved with the animals of the Tibetan calendar. Beyond it, the stupa's eyes catch the first sun, and the smell of juniper smoke drifts across the platform.
We walk clockwise around the stupa, light butter lamps if you wish, and step into the Harati temple, where mothers bring babies for the goddess's blessing. By 7:30 am the mist is usually lifting off the valley, and from the eastern terraces you can pick out Durbar Square, the Dharahara tower and, in winter, the snow peaks to the north. We finish with breakfast at a cafe on the hill and are back in Thamel by about 8:30 am.
Good for
- Couples
- Solo
- Photographers
- Pilgrims
- First-timers
Questions travellers ask
How many steps are there at Swayambhunath?
The east stairway has 365 stone steps, rising roughly 70 m from the gate to the stupa platform. Most people take 15 to 25 minutes with a few rests. The steps are steep and uneven in places, with handrails at the top section. A western entrance with a car park offers a much shorter climb.
What time does Swayambhunath open in the morning?
The hill is open to worshippers from very early, before sunrise, and many locals climb from around 5 am. Ticket booths for foreign visitors generally open by early morning, and you can enter for the dawn climb with a guide. Hours can change, so check current status before you travel.
Is the dawn climb suitable for children?
Yes for children of about six and over who can manage a long flight of stairs with rests. Hold younger children's hands near the top, where the steps steepen, and keep snacks hidden from the monkeys. Families with toddlers or grandparents can take the car to the western entrance and still be on the platform for sunrise.
