The Kathmandu Valley's own creation story begins on this hill. According to the Swayambhu Purana the valley was once a lake, a lotus bloomed on its waters and gave off a self-created light, and the bodhisattva Manjushri cut a gorge at Chobhar to drain the water so that people could reach it. Where the lotus settled, the hill of Swayambhu rose. A medieval chronicle credits the first stupa to King Vrishadeva around the start of the fifth century, which makes this one of the oldest religious sites in the valley.
Today the white dome is crowned by a gilded square tower painted on all four sides with the Buddha's half-closed eyes, a third eye above them and a curled symbol below that looks like a question mark: it is the Nepali numeral one, standing for unity. Around the stupa crowd shrines, prayer wheels, butter lamp houses, a Tibetan monastery and the pagoda of Harati, protector of children, worshipped by Buddhists and Hindus alike. That mix of the two faiths on one hilltop is typical of the valley's Newar culture.
Most visitors know it as the Monkey Temple. Troops of rhesus macaques live on the wooded slopes, which legend says grew from lice in Manjushri's hair, and they slide down the stair rails and raid unattended bags. The climb is part of the experience: 365 steps on the east side, rising roughly 70 m, with a gentler western entrance for those who cannot manage it. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee of around NPR 200, with a lower SAARC rate; check current status before you travel.
What to see and do
- The 365-step east stairway
The traditional approach starts at a gate with three large painted Buddha statues and climbs 365 worn stone steps through the trees, past carved animals and small chaityas. It takes 15 to 25 minutes with stops. At the top you step out beside a massive gilded vajra, the thunderbolt symbol of Vajrayana Buddhism, facing the stupa.
- The stupa and its eyes
Up close the stupa is ringed by prayer wheels and gilded niches holding images of the five Buddhas. The eyes on the tower watch the valley in all four directions, and the thirteen gilded rings above them stand for the stages toward enlightenment. Walk around it clockwise, spinning each wheel with your right hand.
- Harati temple and the shrines
Beside the stupa stands the small pagoda of Harati, goddess of children and protector against disease, where mothers bring babies for blessings. Around the platform are the two tall stone shikhara temples built in the 17th century under King Pratap Malla, rows of chaityas and a Tibetan gompa where monks chant in the afternoons.
- A view over the whole valley
From the eastern terraces the city spreads out below: the rebuilt Dharahara tower, the old core around Durbar Square, the airport and the hills of the valley rim. On clear mornings from October to February, Ganesh Himal and the Langtang peaks show to the north above the haze.
- The Monkey Temple crowd
Hundreds of rhesus macaques live on the hill and have no fear of people. Watching the young ones play on the railings and fountains is a favourite with children, but do not feed them, keep food and drinks in a closed bag, and give mothers with babies plenty of space.
- Amideva Buddha Park at the foot
On the western side of the hill, across the ring road, three golden statues of about 20 m tower over a small park: Amitabha, known locally as Amideva, in the centre, flanked by Shakyamuni Buddha and Avalokiteshvara. Locals walk a circuit around the hill here every morning, lined with prayer wheels and chortens.
Experiences in Swayambhunath
How to reach Swayambhunath
Road
Swayambhunath is about 3 km west of Thamel, roughly 15 minutes by car. A taxi costs about NPR 300 to 400. Ask for the east gate if you want to climb the 365 steps, or the western car park if you want the shorter walk up; our cars use either, depending on who is in the group and what else is on the day's plan.
On foot
From Thamel it is a 40 to 50 minute walk through Chhetrapati and across the Bishnumati River, then along the lane to the east stairway. From Kathmandu Durbar Square it is about 2.5 km. Walking there in the early morning, when the city is just waking, makes a good start to the dawn climb.
Air
Tribhuvan International Airport is about 8 km east, 30 to 45 minutes by road across the city depending on traffic. Swayambhunath works well on the morning after you arrive, combined with Kathmandu Durbar Square, which lies between the stupa and Thamel and is easily added on the way back.
Where to stay
There are no large hotels on the hill itself, and few reasons to sleep beside it, because Thamel is only 3 km away. Most of our guests stay in a 3-star hotel in Thamel, which puts restaurants, shops and the walking route to the stupa on the doorstep. For more comfort, Hotel Shanker in Lazimpat and Hotel Yak & Yeti on Durbar Marg are 15 to 25 minutes by car, and the Kathmandu Marriott Hotel in Naxal is a little further east. A handful of small guesthouses around the Swayambhu and Chhauni area suit travellers who want to climb at first light without a taxi.
Tips from our trip managers
- Climb the east stairway early, before 8 am, when it is cooler, quieter and the monkeys are still sleepy.
- Keep sunglasses, water bottles and snacks out of sight, as the monkeys snatch anything that looks like food.
- Take the western entrance by car if anyone in your group has knee or heart trouble, as it saves most of the climb.
- Wear shoes with grip, because the old stone steps are steep, uneven and slippery after rain.
- Walk clockwise around the stupa and shrines, and keep a few NPR 10 and 20 notes for donations at the butter lamp houses.
