The hills you see north of Kathmandu, dark with forest even in the dry season, are Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. Declared a national park in 2002 to protect the valley's main water catchment, it was enlarged in 2009 with the Nagarjun forest to the west, giving a total of about 159 km². It is the closest national park to any capital in the Himalaya: from Budhanilkantha or Sundarijal, you walk out of suburbs and straight into oak, rhododendron and pine forest within minutes.
The park climbs from about 1,350 m to the summit of Shivapuri at 2,732 m. Streams from its slopes feed the Bagmati and Bishnumati rivers, and the Bagmati itself begins at Baghdwar, a spring below the summit where water pours from a stone tiger's mouth. Religious sites dot the hills: Nagi Gompa, a Buddhist nunnery above Budhanilkantha; the Shivapuri Baba shrine; and the Jamacho stupa on Nagarjun hill, where the Buddhist sage Nagarjuna is said to have meditated.
For wildlife, Shivapuri is one of the best birding sites near Kathmandu, with more than 300 species recorded, from laughingthrushes and minivets to Himalayan griffons. Barking deer, rhesus macaques and wild boar are common, and leopards live in the forest, though they are rarely seen. The park makes a good acclimatisation day before a trek, a short break for families, or the first stage of the Chisapani and Helambu routes.
What to see and do
- Shivapuri peak
The highest point on the valley rim at 2,732 m. On clear winter mornings the summit gives views north to the Langtang range, Ganesh Himal and Dorje Lakpa and south across the whole Kathmandu Valley. Allow 6–7 hours return from Budhanilkantha.
- Nagi Gompa nunnery
A Buddhist nunnery on the slopes above Budhanilkantha, about 2 hours' climb from the park gate. Nuns live and study here, and visitors can see the prayer hall and enjoy wide views of Kathmandu. Dress modestly and keep noise low.
- Baghdwar, source of the Bagmati
Below the summit, the sacred Bagmati River starts at Baghdwar, where a spring flows from a carved stone tiger's mouth. Hindu pilgrims come here on special days. It lies on the trail between Shivapuri peak and Borlang Bhanjyang.
- Nagarjun and Jamacho stupa
In the park's western section, a road and trail climb Nagarjun hill to Jamacho at about 2,100 m, crowned with a white stupa and prayer flags. Buddhists associate the hill with the sage Nagarjuna. The view covers the valley and, on clear days, the Himalaya.
- Over 300 bird species
Shivapuri is a top birding area close to Kathmandu, with more than 300 species recorded. Early mornings from November to April are best for laughingthrushes, sunbirds, minivets, woodpeckers and raptors such as the Himalayan griffon.
- Budhanilkantha temple at the gate
At the foot of the park, Budhanilkantha temple holds a large stone statue of Vishnu reclining on a bed of serpents in a water tank, one of the most revered Hindu shrines in the valley. Most hikes start just above it.
Experiences in Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park
How to reach Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park
Road
Budhanilkantha, at the main park gate, is about 12 km and 30–45 minutes by taxi from Thamel. Sundarijal gate is about 15 km and 45 minutes to 1 hour from central Kathmandu. Nagarjun's Phulbari gate is about 5 km west of Thamel, near Balaju.
On foot
Trails climb from Budhanilkantha to Nagi Gompa (about 2 hours) and on to Shivapuri peak (2–3 hours more). From Sundarijal the trail leads to Chisapani in 4–5 hours, and from Phulbari a trail climbs to Jamacho in about 3 hours.
Where to stay
Most visitors stay in Kathmandu and come for the day, but two properties at Budhanilkantha on the park's southern edge make good bases. Shivapuri Heights Cottage is a small group of traditional-style cottages higher up the hillside with seven rooms, home-cooked meals and terraces looking over the valley, reached by a short walk from the road. Park Village Resort by KGH Group is a larger 4-star resort on wooded grounds about 8 minutes' walk from the park, with a pool, spa and restaurants. Inside the park there are no hotels; Chisapani's lodges sit on its northern edge.
Tips from our trip managers
- Start early, by 7 am, for the best birdwatching and the clearest Himalayan views before haze builds.
- Carry your passport for the entry fee; foreigners pay around NPR 1,000 and SAARC nationals less, so check current status before you travel.
- Hike in a group or with a guide; avoid walking alone in the forest late in the day.
- Carry 2 litres of water and snacks for Shivapuri peak, as there are no shops above Nagi Gompa.
- Dress modestly and keep quiet at Nagi Gompa, which is a working nunnery.
