Climb out of the forest above Ghap and the valley opens at Namrung, a cluster of stone houses, barley fields and prayer flags at about 2,630 m. This is the first village of Nubri proper, the high Buddhist part of the Budhi Gandaki whose people are culturally Tibetan. The change is clear: mani walls run down the middle of the trail, houses have flat roofs stacked with firewood and the lodges serve Tibetan bread and butter tea alongside dal bhat.
Namrung is also where the big mountains start to show. To the north-east, Siringi Himal (7,187 m) rises above the valley; to the south, Himal Chuli (7,893 m) and Ngadi Chuli (7,871 m) appear from the ridge above the village on clear mornings. The air is cooler, the forests change from bamboo and oak to pine, fir and rhododendron, and nights in October drop to a few degrees above freezing.
Most itineraries spend one night here after the long walk from Deng, crossing the river several times and passing the side trail to Prok village. Namrung has a permit checkpoint and some of the more comfortable lodges on the lower circuit, with heated dining rooms and attached bathrooms in a few. From here it is 4 to 5 hours on to Lho, through the farming villages of Banjam, Lihi and Sho.
What to see and do
- First Himalayan panorama
From the ridge above Namrung on a clear morning you see Siringi Himal to the north-east and Himal Chuli and Ngadi Chuli to the south. After three days in deep gorges, this is the moment the trek starts to feel high.
- Entering Nubri
Namrung marks the start of Nubri, the Tibetan Buddhist upper valley. Mani walls, chortens and prayer flags become constant companions, and the people, language and food change from the Gurung villages below.
- Lihi and Sho villages
Between Namrung and Lho the trail passes Lihi and Sho, farming villages with barley fields, long mani walls and kani gateways. They are among the most photogenic villages on the circuit and see far fewer visitors than Samagaun.
- Pine and rhododendron forest
The climb from Ghap to Namrung runs through mixed forest of pine, fir, oak and rhododendron. In April the rhododendrons flower red and pink, and langur monkeys and pheasants are sometimes seen.
- Comfortable lodges
Namrung's teahouses are among the better ones on the lower half of the trek, with warm dining rooms, hot showers and a few rooms with attached bathrooms. It is a good place to dry clothes and recharge before the higher villages.
Experiences in Namrung
How to reach Namrung
On foot
From Deng (about 1,860 m) walk via Rana, Bihi Phedi and Ghap to Namrung in 6 to 7 hours, about 19 km and 770 m net gain, with several bridge crossings and a steady final climb through forest. From Machha Khola it is three walking days.
Helicopter
There is no scheduled helicopter service, but Namrung has open fields where rescue helicopters can land in an emergency. Evacuation to Kathmandu takes about 50 minutes in good weather and should be covered by your travel insurance.
Where to stay
Namrung has a handful of teahouses along the main trail and around the checkpoint, mostly two-storey stone and timber buildings with twin rooms, a stove-heated dining room and solar hot water. A few rooms have attached bathrooms, which are rare above Jagat, and lodges serve Tibetan bread, potatoes and apple dishes as well as dal bhat. Lodge names change between seasons, so we confirm rooms each autumn and spring rather than list them. Because many groups converge here on day four, we book in advance for October.
Tips from our trip managers
- Get up early for the view: walk 10 minutes above the village before breakfast to see Siringi Himal and Himal Chuli before cloud.
- Start wearing warmer layers in the evening; nights here can drop to 2 to 5 °C in late October.
- Have your permits ready again, as Namrung has a checkpoint.
- Slow down from here: above 2,500 m, aim to gain no more than 500 to 600 m of sleeping altitude a day.
- Ask your guide to point out the side trail to Prok, an older Nubri village across the river.
