Leave Kagbeni heading north and the landscape changes fast. The Kali Gandaki valley narrows, poplars give way to bare slopes, and after about 4 hours on foot or an hour by jeep the walls of Chhusang appear: a village of mud-brick houses and walled fields on a terrace above the river, beneath cliffs eroded into red and ochre columns. High in those cliffs are dozens of cave openings, part of the network of man-made caves that runs through Mustang.
Chhusang stands where the Narshing Khola joins the Kali Gandaki. Up that side valley lies Tetang, a striking village of tall houses connected by tunnels, from which an old trail climbs over the Gyu La to Muktinath. Across the main river, the trail to Chele crosses a bridge where the Kali Gandaki squeezes through a rock tunnel it has carved for itself, one of the oddest sights on the route north.
For trekkers, Chhusang is usually a lunch stop on the long first day from Kagbeni to Chele (3,050 m), though it makes a good overnight for those who prefer a gentler start. For jeep travellers, it is a tea and photo stop. Either way, it is your introduction to Upper Mustang: Tibetan-style villages, Buddhist chortens, poplar groves and the wind that sweeps up the valley each afternoon.
What to see and do
- Cave-dotted red cliffs
Above and around Chhusang, eroded cliffs hold dozens of cave openings, some once used as homes, tombs or granaries. They are best seen from the trail or road, as most are unreachable and fragile.
- Tetang village
About 30 minutes up the Narshing Khola, Tetang's tall mud-brick houses are linked by covered passages. It is one of the most atmospheric villages in Upper Mustang and is less visited than those on the road.
- Kali Gandaki rock tunnel
Between Chhusang and Chele, the river disappears into a short natural tunnel it has cut through the rock. A bridge crosses just above, and the sight of the river vanishing into the cliff stops most trekkers.
- Chele village
Across the river and up a steep climb of about 1 hour, Chele (3,050 m) is the usual first night of the Upper Mustang trek, with simple lodges and a view back down the valley.
- First chortens of Lo
Painted chortens in red, white and grey begin to line the trail around Chhusang, marking the cultural shift from Thakali Lower Mustang to the Tibetan Buddhist world of Lo.
Experiences in Chhusang
How to reach Chhusang
Road
Jeeps reach Chhusang from Jomsom in about 1–1.5 hours (≈ 25 km) via Kagbeni, mostly on the riverbed track. The road can flood in summer afternoons when meltwater rises. Most jeep tours pass through on the way to Ghami or Lo Manthang.
On foot
From Kagbeni the trail follows the east or west bank of the Kali Gandaki through Tangbe to Chhusang in 4–5 hours with about 200 m of height gain. Chele is another 1–1.5 hours, across the river and up a steep climb.
Where to stay
Chhusang has a few small family lodges and teahouses, with simple twin rooms, mostly shared bathrooms and a kitchen serving dal bhat, noodles and tea. Chele, an hour further on, has more choice and is the more common first-night stop for trekkers. Tetang has homestay-style lodges for those taking the eastern route towards Muktinath via the Gyu La. Comfort is basic in all three villages, so carry a warm sleeping bag. Jeep travellers usually continue to Ghami or Tsarang for the night.
Tips from our trip managers
- Cross the Kali Gandaki riverbed early in the day; meltwater makes some channels deeper by afternoon.
- Do not try to climb into the cliff caves; they are fragile, dangerous and some are protected archaeological sites.
- Carry lunch snacks for the Kagbeni–Chele day; food stops are few and simple.
- Show your permits at the checkpoint in Kagbeni before you start; they may be checked again further on.
- Bring a buff or mask for the dust blown up the valley by the afternoon wind.
