North of Chhusang, the trail drops to the Kali Gandaki and crosses on a steel bridge. Just upstream, the river has carved a passage through a band of rock and disappears into a short tunnel, emerging below the bridge in a churning green pool. The sight is all the more surprising because elsewhere the river spreads wide over gravel flats.
Beyond the bridge, the path climbs steeply up a red earth slope, gaining about 100 m in a short distance before easing into the village of Chele. Chele's houses are built of stone and mud with flat roofs, and the village looks back down the valley towards Kagbeni and the peaks of Nilgiri. Most trekkers spend their first night here.
From Chhusang to Chele allow 1–1.5 hours. The climb is short but at around 3,000 m it is a good early test of breathing. Take it slowly. Jeeps follow a road on a different line, so walkers have this stretch mostly to themselves, apart from the occasional horse caravan carrying goods north.
Good for
- Photographers
- Solo
- Couples
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
Where does the Kali Gandaki flow through a tunnel?
Just below Chele, between Chhusang and Chele in Upper Mustang, the Kali Gandaki passes through a short natural tunnel it has cut in the rock. Trekkers see it from the bridge on the trail between the two villages. It is about 1–1.5 hours' walk north of Chhusang.
What is the altitude of Chele?
Chele is at about 3,050 m, a little above Chhusang (2,980 m). It is the usual first overnight stop on the Upper Mustang trek from Kagbeni, after 6–7 hours of walking. The following day climbs over the Taklam La and Dajori La to Syangboche at about 3,800 m.
Is the first day of the Upper Mustang trek hard?
It is long rather than hard: 6–7 hours from Kagbeni to Chele, mostly along the river with a gain of about 250 m, ending with a short steep climb. Wind and dust are the main discomforts in the afternoon. Start early, drink often and carry snacks.
