Once the wind drops in late afternoon, Tsarang becomes very quiet. We walk east from the lodge, past irrigated fields bordered by stone walls and willow trees, to a viewpoint on the canyon rim. The Charang Khola has carved a deep gorge into soft sediments, leaving fluted columns and caves along its walls. In the low sun the rock glows orange and red.
On the way back we pass through the village lanes. Women return from the fields with baskets, children chase goats into courtyards and men stack brushwood on the rooftops for winter fuel. Prayer flags hang over every door. Your guide translates if anyone wants to stop and chat, and may arrange tea in a home where you can see a traditional Loba kitchen.
The walk is flat and short, around 4 km with very little climbing, and suits everyone. Bring a warm jacket, because the temperature drops quickly once the sun goes behind the ridge, even in summer, and a head torch if you linger to watch the stars come out over the canyon.
Good for
- Families
- Photographers
- Seniors
- Couples
Questions travellers ask
What is there to do in Tsarang in the evening?
Walk to the canyon rim for sunset, explore the village lanes, visit the monastery during evening prayers if monks are present, and enjoy a warm meal around the lodge stove. There are no shops or cafés beyond a few small stores. Skies are very clear, so stargazing is excellent on moonless nights.
How cold does Tsarang get at night?
In May and September nights fall to about 0 to −5 °C; in October to −5 to −10 °C. Days are warmer, often 15–20 °C in the sun. Rooms are unheated, so bring a warm sleeping bag, thermal layers and a hat. Lodges often heat the dining room in the evening.
Who are the Loba people?
The Loba are the people of Lo, the historic kingdom of Upper Mustang. They speak a Tibetan dialect, practise Tibetan Buddhism, mostly of the Sakya school, and live by farming barley and buckwheat, herding and trade. Many now spend winters in Pokhara or Kathmandu and return in spring.
