Dunai lines the north bank of the Thuli Bheri, where the river runs fast and grey through a deep, dry valley. The town has a main street of shops, government offices, a hospital, police and national park posts, banks and a handful of lodges, most of them two or three storeys of concrete and stone. For people in Dolpo's remote villages, it is the place to buy rice, kerosene, clothes and solar panels, and the place to settle official business.
For trekkers, Dunai is where Dolpo begins. Flights from Nepalgunj land at Juphal, a hillside airstrip about 3 hours' walk away, and the first afternoon is spent walking down through terraced fields to the river and along it to Dunai. Permit checks happen here and at the national park office in nearby Sulighat, where the Suli Gad joins the Thuli Bheri and the trail to Phoksundo turns north.
There is little to see in Dunai itself, but it is a useful acclimatisation stop at a modest 2,140 m, and the evening walk along the river or up to the viewpoint above town shows how dramatic the valley is. From here the routes split: north up the Suli Gad to Chhepka and Phoksundo Lake, or east along the Thuli Bheri to Tarakot, the Tarap valley and the high passes of the Lower Dolpo circuit.
What to see and do
- Juphal to Dunai walk
The first afternoon in Dolpo descends from Juphal's airstrip through terraced fields and villages to the Thuli Bheri, then follows the river to Dunai. It takes about 3 hours and is mostly downhill.
- Thuli Bheri gorge
The Thuli Bheri river cuts a deep valley through dry hills around Dunai. Suspension bridges cross it at intervals, and the trail east towards Tarakot runs high above the water on cliffs.
- District bazaar
Dunai's shops supply all of Dolpo. Walk the main street to see traders from upper villages, mule caravans loading goods and the government offices that make it the region's hub.
- Gateway to Phoksundo
At Sulighat, just west of Dunai, the national park office checks permits and the trail turns north up the Suli Gad towards Chhepka and Phoksundo Lake.
- Route east to Tarap
East of Dunai, the Lower Dolpo circuit follows the Thuli Bheri to Tarakot, with its old fort and gompa, before climbing into the Tarap valley.
Experiences in Dunai
How to reach Dunai
Air
Fly Kathmandu–Nepalgunj (about 1 h), then Nepalgunj–Juphal (35–45 min) on an early-morning flight. Juphal flights are often delayed by wind or cloud; keep at least one spare day. Check current schedules before you travel.
On foot
From Juphal airstrip it is about 3 hours on foot to Dunai, descending to the Thuli Bheri and following the river east. Porters and mules can be hired at Juphal. Phoksundo Lake is 2–3 further days to the north.
Road
A rough road links Dunai with Jajarkot and Surkhet, about 2 days by jeep from Nepalgunj or Surkhet, mainly used by locals and supply trucks. It is often blocked by landslides from June to September. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Dunai has a few basic hotels and lodges along the main street, with twin rooms, shared or attached bathrooms, and restaurants serving dal bhat, noodles and simple curries. Standards are modest, similar to a district town lodge anywhere in Nepal; hot water and electricity can be irregular. Camping groups often pitch tents at a site near the river. There are no star-rated hotels in Dolpo, so set expectations accordingly and bring your own sleeping bag.
Tips from our trip managers
- Carry permits and passport copies at the top of your bag; checks happen at Juphal, Dunai and Sulighat.
- Buy any last supplies such as batteries, snacks and toilet paper in Dunai; choice drops sharply beyond it.
- Banks in Dunai may not accept foreign cards; bring all the cash you need from Kathmandu or Nepalgunj.
- Expect dust and heat in the Thuli Bheri valley at midday; start walking early.
- Keep a spare day in your schedule for Juphal flight delays on the way out.
