Few sights in Nepal match the first view of Phoksundo. After days in a narrow, forested gorge, the trail climbs past a 167 m waterfall, Nepal's tallest by most accounts, and tops a ridge to reveal a lake of improbable colour, turquoise in the shallows and ink blue in the depths, walled by grey cliffs and snow peaks. The lake is about 5 km long and roughly 145 m deep, held back by an ancient landslide dam.
On the southern shore sits Ringmo, a village of stone houses with flat roofs piled with firewood, and a few minutes' walk along the shore stands Tshowa Gompa, a monastery of the Bon religion, Tibet's pre-Buddhist faith, with prayer flags reflected in the water. Dolpo's people follow Bon and Buddhism, farm barley and potatoes, herd yaks and goats and trade over high passes to Tibet, much as in the film Himalaya (1999), which was shot in the region.
Phoksundo is the centrepiece of Shey Phoksundo National Park, Nepal's largest at 3,555 km², home to blue sheep, Himalayan tahr and the elusive snow leopard. Getting here takes effort: flights from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and on to Juphal, then three or four days of trekking through Dunai and up the Suli Gad. Visitors are few, lodges are simple and the reward is a lake that many trekkers call the most beautiful in the Himalaya.
What to see and do
- First view over the lake
From the ridge above Ringmo at about 3,800 m, the lake appears below in full: a long turquoise sheet framed by cliffs and peaks. Arrive in the morning for the strongest colour, before clouds or wind ruffle the surface.
- Phoksundo waterfall
Below Ringmo, the lake's outflow drops about 167 m in a long white cascade, often described as Nepal's highest waterfall. The trail climbs alongside it, so you see it from several angles on the final day in.
- Tshowa Bon monastery
On the lake shore east of Ringmo, Tshowa Gompa belongs to the Bon tradition. Bon followers walk anticlockwise around shrines, the reverse of Buddhists. Monks or a caretaker may open the prayer hall.
- Ringmo village
Ringmo's stone houses, mani walls and chortens sit between the lake and fields of barley. Women weave on back-strap looms and sell woollen goods; the village is the base for all walks around the lake.
- The western shore trail
A narrow path cut into cliffs runs along the lake's western shore towards Upper Dolpo and the Kang La. Walking the first section gives remarkable views down onto the water, but it has drops, so go with a guide.
- Wildlife of the national park
Blue sheep graze the slopes above the lake, and Himalayan griffons and lammergeiers ride the thermals. Snow leopards live in the park but sightings are rare and need luck and time.
Experiences in Shey Phoksundo Lake
How to reach Shey Phoksundo Lake
Air
Fly Kathmandu–Nepalgunj (about 1 h), then take the early-morning Nepalgunj–Juphal flight (35–45 min) on Tara Air or Summit Air. Juphal flights are small, weather-dependent and frequently delayed; keep at least one buffer day each way. Check current schedules before you travel.
On foot
From Juphal (2,475 m) the trek reaches Phoksundo in 3–4 days: Juphal–Dunai (3 h), Dunai–Chhepka (6–7 h), Chhepka–Jharana or Amchi Hospital (5–6 h), then to Ringmo (4–5 h), climbing past the waterfall. Lower Dolpo circuits arrive from Do Tarap over the Numa La and Baga La.
Helicopter
Charter helicopters from Nepalgunj or Juphal can land near Ringmo, mainly for rescues or private trips. Flying straight to 3,611 m without acclimatisation is not advised. Costs are high and landing rules in the park can change; check current status before you travel.
Road
A rough seasonal road now reaches Dunai from Jajarkot and Surkhet, a long 2-day drive. It is used by locals and supply trucks and is often closed by landslides in the monsoon. Most visitors fly.
Where to stay
Ringmo has a few simple lodges and campsites run by local families, with twin rooms, shared toilets and dining rooms serving dal bhat, potatoes, Tibetan bread and noodles. Supplies come by mule from Juphal, so menus are short and prices higher than in Annapurna. Many agencies camp at Phoksundo for comfort and flexibility, with tents, a kitchen crew and dining tent. On the approach, Chhepka, Rechi and Amchi Hospital have small lodges or campsites. There are no hotels of standard grade anywhere in Dolpo; bring a four-season sleeping bag.
Tips from our trip managers
- Keep at least one spare day for the Juphal flight each way; delays of a day or more are common.
- Bon followers circle shrines anticlockwise; follow your guide's lead at Tshowa Gompa.
- Do not swim or wash in the lake; it is sacred to local people and the water is very cold.
- Carry cash for the whole trip; there are no ATMs beyond Nepalgunj, and Dunai's banks are unreliable for foreign cards.
- Bring water purification tablets or a filter; bottled water is scarce and plastic must be carried out.
