Lo Manthang's amchi school trains young people from Upper Mustang in sowa rigpa, the Tibetan medical system based on pulse reading, herbs and diet. If the teachers have time, they show visitors the dispensary with its jars of dried roots, minerals and flowers gathered from the hills, and explain how remedies are compounded. A donation helps the school, which provides care in villages that have no doctor.
From the school we walk west across irrigated barley fields to Namgyal Gompa, the Monastery of Victory, on a bare ridge about 40 minutes from the walls. It is an active Sakya monastery with a large prayer hall. From here the trail continues to Tingkhar, the last village of any size before the Tibetan border, with whitewashed houses and stacks of brush on every roof. The height gain is only 100–150 m.
Back in Lo Manthang by early afternoon, you have time to rest before the wind. In June the fields are bright green; in late September the harvest is under way and families thresh barley on flat rooftops. Our guide can arrange tea in a local home, a good chance to try salt butter tea and tsampa.
Good for
- Families
- Seniors
- Couples
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
What is amchi medicine?
Amchi is the name in Mustang and Dolpo for practitioners of sowa rigpa, the traditional Tibetan medical system. Amchi diagnose through pulse and urine reading and treat with herbal and mineral compounds, diet and lifestyle advice. In remote villages they remain the main source of healthcare, and schools in Lo Manthang train new practitioners.
Is the walk to Tingkhar difficult?
No. It is a gentle walk on farm tracks and paths with about 100–150 m of height gain, taking 3–4 hours in total including Namgyal Gompa. The altitude of around 3,850–3,900 m is the main challenge, so walk slowly. Horses can be hired for anyone who prefers to ride.
Can I try local food in Lo Manthang?
Yes. Lodges serve Tibetan dishes such as thukpa, momo, Tibetan bread and tsampa alongside dal bhat and simple Western food. Salt butter tea is drunk all day. Your guide can arrange tea or a simple meal in a family home for a small fee, a good way to see a traditional kitchen.
