We leave Marpha by 7 am, before the wind, and cross to the west bank of the Kali Gandaki. The path runs through apple orchards and along stone walls, then past Chhairo, where Tibetan refugees settled in the 1960s and a small gompa has been restored with care. Carpet looms are sometimes at work in the courtyards.
Beyond Chhairo the trail follows the broad gravel bed of the river, with Nilgiri North ahead and the long ridge of Dhaulagiri behind you. The valley here is one of the deepest gorges in the world, measured from the peaks on either side, though at this point it opens out into a wide, flat floor. Look on the gravel for Shaligram; locals sometimes find them here as well as at Kagbeni.
The walk gains only about 50 m over 6–7 km and finishes at the bridge into Jomsom bazaar, in time for a second breakfast. It is a good acclimatisation walk before Muktinath and suits families and seniors who walk regularly. If anyone tires, the road is never far away and a jeep can collect you.
Good for
- Families
- Seniors
- Couples
- Solo
Questions travellers ask
How long is the walk from Marpha to Jomsom?
About 6–7 km, taking 1.5–2 hours at an easy pace, with only around 50 m of height gain. The route follows trails on the west bank and the river gravels, avoiding most of the road. Start early because the afternoon wind blows from the south and fills the valley with dust.
Is the Kali Gandaki gorge the deepest in the world?
By one measure, yes. The Kali Gandaki flows between Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna I (8,091 m), and the difference between the river and the peaks on either side is often cited as making it the world's deepest gorge. Near Marpha and Jomsom the valley floor itself is wide and flat.
Can we see Shaligram near Marpha?
Shaligram are found along the Kali Gandaki gravels from Kagbeni down past Jomsom and Marpha, though the best-known spots are near Kagbeni and further upstream. You may find a small one on the Marpha–Jomsom walk if you look carefully in the riverbed. Local shops in Marpha also sell them.
