From the lodges in Ringmo, a path follows the eastern shore past mani walls and chortens to Tshowa Gompa, a small white-and-red monastery on a spur above the lake. It belongs to Bon, the religion of Tibet before Buddhism arrived, which survives strongly in Dolpo. Inside, statues and paintings show Bon deities and the founder Tonpa Shenrab, whose iconography looks familiar yet different from Buddhist images.
Bon practice runs in reverse to Buddhist custom: followers walk anticlockwise around temples and spin prayer wheels the other way. Your guide explains the differences and the history of Bon in Dolpo. A monk or caretaker usually opens the prayer hall for a donation. From the monastery's terrace the lake spreads out below, its colours shifting from pale turquoise near the shore to deep blue farther out.
The walk is short and almost flat, about 2 km each way, and suits everyone, though at 3,611 m you should still walk slowly. Many trekkers return to sit on the shore through the afternoon, reading or photographing. Remember the lake is sacred: no swimming, no washing and no stones thrown into the water.
Good for
- Photographers
- Couples
- Solo
- Groups
Questions travellers ask
What is Bon religion?
Bon is the indigenous religion of Tibet, which predates the arrival of Buddhism in the 7th–8th centuries. Over time it absorbed many Buddhist elements, and today it has monasteries, monks and scriptures similar in form to Buddhism, but with its own founder, deities and rituals. Dolpo is one of its strongholds in Nepal.
Can I swim in Phoksundo Lake?
No. Phoksundo is sacred to local Bon and Buddhist communities, and swimming, washing and fishing are not allowed. The water is also extremely cold, a few degrees above freezing even in summer, and very deep close to the shore. Enjoy the lake from its banks and the trails above.
How old is Tshowa Gompa?
Tshowa Gompa is usually described as several centuries old, with some sources claiming around 900 years, though exact dates are uncertain. It has been repaired many times. It remains an active Bon monastery serving Ringmo and nearby villages, and visitors are welcome respectfully.
