Tsarang spreads along a terrace above the Charang Khola canyon, its whitewashed houses separated by walled fields of barley, buckwheat and mustard. At the eastern end, two buildings dominate: a large red monastery of the Sakya school and the ruined dzong, a five-storey fortress-palace that served the kings of Lo before the court settled in Lo Manthang. Together they make Tsarang the most interesting overnight stop on the way north.
The monastery, Tsarang Gompa, dates to the 15th century. Its main hall holds statues of the Buddhas and a collection of old thangkas, and monks may show visitors a library of texts and ritual objects. The dzong is in poor repair, with sagging walls and dark rooms, and access depends on the caretaker; when it is open, the chapel on its upper floor has old images and the roof gives a long view over the village and canyon.
Trekkers usually arrive from Ghami after crossing the Tsarang La (about 3,870 m) and passing one of the longest mani walls in Nepal. Jeep tours from Jomsom often stop here for the night to break the climb to Lo Manthang. From Tsarang, Lo Manthang is about 3–4 hours on foot over the Lo La, or 45 minutes to an hour by jeep.
What to see and do
- Tsarang Gompa
A large red Sakya monastery from the 15th century with an assembly hall of Buddhas, old thangkas and wall paintings. Young monks study here. Ask the caretaker to open the hall and leave a donation for upkeep.
- The five-storey dzong
The old palace-fort of the kings of Lo stands next to the monastery, its walls leaning and weathered. When the caretaker allows, you can climb to an upper chapel with old statues and see the village spread below.
- Charang canyon
The village ends at the lip of a deep, eroded canyon cut by the Charang Khola, with fluted cliffs and caves. Late afternoon light turns the rock gold and red. Keep well back from the crumbling edge.
- Long mani wall towards Ghami
On the trail south towards Ghami, a mani wall of carved prayer stones runs for roughly 300 m, among the longest in Nepal. Walk on its left side, as is the custom, so the wall is on your right.
- Gateway to Lo Manthang
From Tsarang, the trail climbs to the Lo La pass at about 3,950 m, where you first see the walls of Lo Manthang on the plain below. It is a moment trekkers remember.
Experiences in Tsarang
How to reach Tsarang
Road
From Jomsom, jeeps reach Tsarang in about 5–6 hours (≈ 65 km) via Kagbeni, Chhusang, Samar and Ghami. Lo Manthang is a further 15 km, about 45–60 minutes. Many jeep tours stop overnight here on the way up or down.
On foot
On the Upper Mustang trek, Tsarang is usually reached on day four or five from Kagbeni. From Ghami it is 4–5 hours over the Tsarang La; on to Lo Manthang is another 3–4 hours via the Lo La.
Helicopter
Some Lo Manthang heli tours fly over Tsarang and Ghami; landing here is rare and needs special arrangement and the restricted area permit.
Where to stay
Tsarang has a handful of family-run lodges, mostly in traditional houses with small rooms around a courtyard, shared or basic attached bathrooms, and dining rooms heated by stoves that burn wood or dung. Food is simple: dal bhat, noodles, Tibetan bread and potatoes. Our guides choose the lodge on the day based on availability and cleanliness. Electricity is from solar or grid power and can fail. Bring a good sleeping bag rated to around −10 °C, as rooms are unheated and nights are cold even in May and September.
Tips from our trip managers
- Visit the monastery in the late afternoon when monks are present and the light on the dzong is best.
- Carry enough cash for gompa donations and lodge bills; there are no banks between Jomsom and Lo Manthang.
- Keep back from the edge of the canyon; the soil is loose and erodes easily.
- Bring a head torch for the dark rooms of the dzong and the unlit lanes at night.
- Fill water bottles at the lodge with boiled or filtered water; plastic bottles are scarce and hard to dispose of.
