Dhampus spreads for a couple of kilometres along a south-facing ridge, its stone houses with slate and tin roofs set among millet, maize and rice terraces. The upper village is mainly Gurung, a community known for its Gurkha soldiers, communal labour and lively songs and dances, while the lower parts are home to Brahmin and Chhetri families. Lodges and homestays sit along the main trail, many with flower gardens and terraces that face the mountains.
The panorama from the village is wide: Dhaulagiri on clear days in the far west, then Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I behind, Machhapuchhre and Annapurna II, with Lamjung Himal to the east. Mornings from October to March are usually clear, and sunrise from the upper village or the viewpoint above it is a highlight of any short trek near Pokhara. In the evening the same peaks turn orange, and lodge terraces fill with trekkers watching the light fade.
Dhampus has long been a stop on routes into the Annapurna region: the old trail from Phedi to Landruk and Ghandruk passed through, and it remains the start of the Mardi Himal trek's eastern approach. Today a jeep road reaches the village, but the stone trail from Phedi through forest and fields is still the better way to arrive. With Australian Camp an hour or two to the west, the two make a classic two- or three-day loop from Pokhara.
What to see and do
- Sunrise over the Annapurnas
From the upper village or the small viewpoint above it, dawn lights Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre one after another. On very clear mornings Dhaulagiri glows far to the west. The view is broad and unobstructed, and you share it with village life rather than crowds.
- Gurung village life
Walk the lanes between stone houses where women weave baskets and tend buffalo, children walk to school and elders sit on stone resting platforms called chautara. In harvest season the courtyards fill with drying millet and corn.
- Homestay with a family
Several Dhampus families host guests in simple rooms, cook dal bhat and seasonal vegetables from their fields and invite you into the kitchen. It is a gentle introduction to rural Nepal, an hour from Pokhara's cafes.
- The stone trail from Phedi
The traditional path climbs about 500 m from Phedi through forest and terraced fields in 1.5–2 hours. It is steep in places but well made, with tea shops and views opening over the Seti valley as you climb.
- Gateway to Mardi Himal
Dhampus is a common starting point for the Mardi Himal trek, which climbs through Pothana and Deurali to Forest Camp, High Camp and a viewpoint above 4,000 m. Even if you are not doing the trek, walking an hour up towards Pothana gives fine forest and views.
Experiences in Dhampus
How to reach Dhampus
Road
Phedi is about 16 km from Pokhara on the Pokhara–Baglung highway, 30–40 minutes by car. A jeep road also climbs from the highway to Dhampus, about 1 hour from Pokhara by four-wheel drive, useful for those who cannot walk far. Taxis go to Phedi; jeeps to the village are arranged in advance.
On foot
From Phedi, a stone trail climbs about 500 m to Dhampus in 1.5–2 hours. From Australian Camp, walk east via Pothana (about 1 hour) and down to Dhampus (1–1.5 hours more). Foreign trekkers need ACAP and TIMS permits and a licensed guide under current rules.
Where to stay
Dhampus has a good choice of simple trekking lodges and homestays strung along the main trail through the village, many with garden terraces facing the mountains. Rooms are basic but clean, with twin beds and either shared or simple attached bathrooms; hot showers are usually solar or gas-heated, and meals are dal bhat, noodles, momo and Tibetan bread. A few lodges have upgraded rooms with larger windows and better bathrooms. There are no 3-star hotels. We book a view lodge or a family homestay according to your preference, and travellers wanting more comfort can visit on a day trip and return to Pokhara.
Tips from our trip managers
- Ask for a mountain-facing room on the upper floor; the view from the bed at dawn is worth it.
- Walk up from Phedi in the cooler afternoon or early morning; the lower trail is sunny and warm.
- Carry Nepali rupees for lodge bills, hot showers and charging, as cards are rarely accepted.
- Respect village customs: ask before photographing people and remove shoes before entering homes.
- Avoid the trail in the monsoon, when leeches appear in the forest and steps get slippery.
