The name means 'heart's wish', and pilgrims climb to Manakamana to ask the goddess for children, health, success in exams, a good marriage or a new business, returning to give thanks when the wish is granted. The temple is a multi-tiered pagoda in a stone-paved square on top of Kafakdada hill, surrounded by small hotels, puja shops and tea houses. Its priests are, by tradition, descendants of Lakhan Thapa, a Magar devotee linked to the 17th century queen of Gorkha's King Ram Shah, who is said to have been the goddess incarnate.
Until 1998 the only way up was a 3–4 hour climb from Abu Khaireni on the highway. That year Nepal's first commercial cable car opened, a 2,772 m Austrian-built gondola rising from Kurintar at about 258 m to the temple ridge in roughly 10 minutes. Visitor numbers multiplied, and Manakamana is now an easy stop on any road journey between Kathmandu, Pokhara and Chitwan. The ride itself, with the valley dropping away below the cabin, is now part of the pilgrimage.
For Indian pilgrims, Manakamana is often paired with Pashupatinath in Kathmandu and the Gorkha Kalika and Muktinath shrines further west. Animal sacrifice is part of worship here: goats and pigeons are offered in a pavilion behind the temple, especially on Saturdays and during Dashain. Vegetarian and Vaishnav pilgrims can offer flowers, coconuts and sweets at the main shrine and avoid that area entirely. The temple is open every day of the year, with the heaviest crowds on Saturdays, public holidays and during Dashain.
What to see and do
- Cable car from Kurintar
The gondola climbs about 1,040 m over 2.8 km in roughly 10 minutes, crossing the Trishuli river valley and terraced hills. Six-seat cabins leave every few minutes. Look back for the river and forward for the temple ridge; on clear days the Himalaya appears as you near the top.
- Darshan of Manakamana Bhagwati
Queue in the stone square to enter the shrine, offer flowers, red powder, coconut and sweets, and ring the temple bells as you leave. On weekdays the queue is often 20–40 minutes; on Saturdays and festival days it can run to several hours.
- Himalayan view from the ridge
From the top of Kafakdada the northern skyline shows Manaslu, Himalchuli and Baudha Himal, with the Annapurnas further west on clear mornings. A short walk behind the temple to the viewpoint gives the open panorama without the crowd.
- The old pilgrim trail
Before the cable car, pilgrims walked up from Abu Khaireni or Anbu Khaireni on the Prithvi Highway, a climb of about 3–4 hours through villages and forest. The trail is still used and makes a satisfying half-day hike for fit walkers.
- Temple square and bazaar
Lanes around the temple sell puja baskets, bangles, red threads, sindoor, brass lamps and local sweets. Simple restaurants serve dal bhat and vegetarian thalis, and several small hotels allow pilgrims to stay overnight for the morning aarti.
- Combine with Gorkha
Gorkha's hilltop palace and Kalika temple are about 50 km away by road via Abu Khaireni. Many pilgrims do Manakamana in the morning and Gorkha the same afternoon or the next day, making a two-shrine darshan between Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Experiences in Manakamana
How to reach Manakamana
Road
Kurintar, the cable car base, is on the Prithvi Highway about 105 km from Kathmandu (3.5–4 h), about 115 km from Pokhara (3.5–4 h) and about 60 km from Chitwan's Sauraha (1.5–2 h) via Mugling. There is a large car park at the station. Tourist buses between Kathmandu and Pokhara or Chitwan will drop you at Kurintar on request.
On foot
The traditional trail starts at Abu Khaireni on the highway west of Mugling and climbs about 1,000 m to the temple in 3–4 hours. Carry water and start early to avoid the midday heat. Many walkers hike up and take the cable car down.
Where to stay
Most visitors do Manakamana as a stop on the road between Kathmandu and Pokhara and sleep in Pokhara, Bandipur or Gorkha the same night. On the ridge there are a number of small, basic hotels and pilgrim lodges around the temple square, with simple rooms and vegetarian meals, useful if you want to attend the early morning aarti before the first cable cars arrive. Down at Kurintar there are a few riverside resorts along the Trishuli on the highway. For a comfortable night with character, we usually continue to The Old Inn in Bandipur, about 1.5 hours west.
Tips from our trip managers
- Avoid Saturdays and Dashain if you dislike crowds; queues for the cable car and the shrine can exceed two to three hours.
- Reach Kurintar when the cable car opens in the morning to beat the tour buses from Kathmandu and Pokhara.
- Pilgrims who prefer not to see animal sacrifice should avoid the pavilion behind the temple, especially on Saturdays.
- Leather items are not allowed inside the shrine, so leave belts and bags with your driver or at a shop.
- Carry Nepali rupees for the cable car ticket and offerings; Indian adults pay a separate rupee fare.
