Until the 1960s Dhankuta was the administrative headquarters for all of north-eastern Nepal, and the town still carries itself like a small capital. Its old bazaar runs along the ridge in stone-paved lanes closed to most traffic, lined with tall brick and timber houses, shops and tea stalls. It is unusually clean and calm for a Nepali town, and the climate at about 1,190 m is mild most of the year.
The district is a mix of Rai, Limbu, Magar, Newar, Brahmin-Chhetri and Tibetan communities, and that variety shows in the food and festivals. Citrus orchards cover the slopes, and Dhankuta's oranges and achar (pickles) are sold all over the east in winter. Rani Ban, the Queen's Forest, a protected stand of pine and rhododendron on the hill above town, is a pleasant walk, and Rajarani lake lies in the forest towards Bhedetar.
Hile, 13 km north at 1,948 m, is a ridge bazaar strung along the highway with a strong Tibetan and Sherpa presence. It is famous for tongba, warm millet beer sipped through a bamboo straw, and on clear winter mornings for views of Makalu and the Kumbhakarna range. From Hile roads lead on to Basantapur and the rhododendron ridges of Tinjure and Milke, and down towards Tumlingtar and the Arun valley.
What to see and do
- Walk the old bazaar
Dhankuta's main bazaar is a long, stone-paved lane along the ridge, mostly free of traffic, with old houses, carved windows, tea shops and small temples. An hour's stroll in the late afternoon gives a feel for a hill town that has changed slowly.
- Oranges and achar
Citrus orchards cover the slopes around Dhankuta. From November to January the roadside stalls are piled with oranges, and shops sell jars of local pickles made from lapsi, radish, chilli and bamboo shoot.
- Tongba in Hile
Hile is the best-known place in eastern Nepal to try tongba, fermented millet in a wooden pot topped with hot water. Pair it with Tibetan-style momos or Rai and Limbu pork dishes in one of the bazaar's eateries.
- Rani Ban forest walk
The Queen's Forest above Dhankuta is a protected woodland of pine and rhododendron with easy paths, popular for morning walks and picnics. Rhododendron flowers in March and April.
- Makalu view from Hile
On clear mornings from October to February, the ridge above Hile looks north to Makalu and the snow peaks of the Kumbhakarna range. Cloud usually builds by late morning.
- Gateway to the Tinjure–Milke hills
Beyond Hile, Basantapur at about 2,200 m is the starting point for walks into the Tinjure–Milke–Jaljale ridges, among Nepal's largest rhododendron forests, at their best in April.
Experiences in Dhankuta and Hile
How to reach Dhankuta and Hile
Road
From Dharan it is ≈ 50 km and about 2 hours up the Koshi Highway via Bhedetar. From Biratnagar airport ≈ 100 km and about 3 hours. Hile is 13 km and 30 minutes beyond Dhankuta.
Air
Fly Kathmandu–Biratnagar (about 40 min, several daily flights) and drive about 3 hours. Tumlingtar airport, on the far side of the Arun, is about 4–5 hours by road from Hile.
Road
Buses run daily from Kathmandu to Dhankuta and Hile, about 12–14 hours, and frequently from Dharan and Itahari through the day.
Where to stay
Dhankuta has a few simple hotels in and around the bazaar, clean and modest, with Nepali and Indian food. Hile has more guesthouses and small hotels along the highway, used by travellers heading to Basantapur, Tumlingtar and the Arun valley, with good local food and tongba on the menu. Neither town has upmarket hotels. Many travellers stay in Bhedetar or Dharan instead and visit Dhankuta and Hile as a day trip. We confirm a recently checked property with your quote.
Tips from our trip managers
- Walk the bazaar in the late afternoon, when shops are open and the light is soft.
- Buy oranges from roadside stalls between November and January; they are cheap and very fresh.
- Tongba is mildly alcoholic but strong over time; ask for a small pot if you just want a taste.
- Go up to Hile early for the best chance of a Makalu view before cloud builds.
- In April, add a day for the rhododendron forests near Basantapur.
