Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve protects a stretch of the Koshi River's floodplain just upstream of the Koshi Barrage on the India border, a flat world of braided channels, reed beds, marshes, grassland and riverine forest. It was established in 1976 to protect the last population of wild water buffalo, or arna, in Nepal, and was listed as a Ramsar wetland in 1987. Elevation is only 75–81 m, so the climate is tropical, hot from April and humid in the monsoon.
Birders come for the winter. From November to March tens of thousands of ducks, geese, waders, storks and raptors arrive from Siberia, Tibet and Central Asia, joining resident species such as the swamp francolin, a globally threatened grassland bird. Several hundred species have been recorded in and around the reserve and the Koshi Barrage, which together form an Important Bird Area. Boat trips on the Koshi can turn up Gangetic river dolphins and gharial.
Koshi Tappu is low-key compared with Chitwan. There are no rhinos or tigers, and no jeep safari circuits full of vehicles. Instead you walk the embankments with a naturalist, float the river in a raft or canoe and sit in hides by the ponds. A handful of tented camps on the reserve edge cater to birders. Biratnagar, the nearest airport, is about 1.5–2 hours away by road.
What to see and do
- Winter waterfowl on the Koshi
From November to March the river channels and ponds fill with ducks, geese, cormorants, herons, storks and waders. Bar-headed geese, ruddy shelducks and large flocks of pochards are typical, and raptors patrol the grasslands.
- Wild water buffalo
Koshi Tappu holds Nepal's only surviving herd of wild water buffalo, known locally as arna. They are larger than domestic buffalo, with huge swept-back horns, and are best seen grazing the grasslands in early morning or late afternoon.
- Koshi Barrage birding
The barrage on the India border, a short drive south, is one of the best spots in Nepal for gulls, terns, ducks and the occasional rarity. The river below it is good for Gangetic dolphins in the dry season.
- River trips by raft or canoe
Floating the Koshi in a raft or canoe gives silent, close views of kingfishers, terns, storks and resting ducks. On lucky days a dolphin surfaces or a gharial basks on a sandbank.
- Swamp francolin and grassland birds
The reserve's tall grass holds specialities such as the swamp francolin, striated grassbird and Bengal florican in some years. A naturalist who knows the calls makes all the difference.
- Tharu and Maithil villages
Villages around the reserve are home to Tharu, Maithil and other Terai communities. Short walks show mud-walled houses, fishing, buffalo herding and crops of rice and mustard.
Experiences in Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
How to reach Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve
Air
Fly Kathmandu–Biratnagar (about 40 min, several daily flights). From Biratnagar it is ≈ 60–70 km and 1.5–2 hours by road via Itahari and the East–West Highway to the reserve headquarters and camps.
Road
From Kathmandu it is ≈ 400 km and 9–10 hours via the BP Highway or the East–West Highway. From Kakarbhitta on the India border allow ≈ 160 km and 4 hours; from Dharan about 1.5 hours.
Rail
The nearest Indian rail heads are Jogbani, opposite Biratnagar, and Jaynagar further west. From Jogbani cross into Biratnagar and drive about 2 hours to the reserve.
Where to stay
A handful of tented camps sit on the edge of the reserve, built mainly for birders and nature lovers. Koshi Camp, in Madhuban village east of the reserve, has walk-in safari tents with a bird hide on its own pond, and Aqua Birds Unlimited Camp, on a private wetland on the reserve border, offers tented rooms and naturalist-led walks. Facilities are simple but comfortable, with full board. For more hotel choice, Biratnagar, Itahari and Dharan have 3-star options within 1.5–2 hours.
Tips from our trip managers
- Book camps early for December and January, when birding tour groups fill them.
- Bring binoculars of at least 8x magnification; a spotting scope is useful at the barrage.
- Wear muted greens and browns and keep voices low on embankment walks.
- Mornings in December and January are foggy and cold, around 8–10 °C; pack a warm layer.
- Avoid May to September: heat, flooding and closed camps make the reserve a poor choice.
