Jumla town, the centre of Chandannath municipality, spreads along the Tila river in a wide, terraced valley ringed by forested ridges. For centuries it was the most important place in the Karnali basin, close to Sinja, the summer capital of the Khasa Malla kings who ruled much of western Nepal and south-west Tibet between the 12th and 14th centuries. Today it is a district headquarters with a short airstrip, a bazaar of wooden-fronted shops and a growing number of apple traders.
Agriculture defines the valley. Jumli Marshi, a cold-tolerant red rice, grows on terraces from about 2,400 to over 3,000 m, among the highest rice fields in the world, and it has been farmed here for many centuries. Jumla apples, grown without much chemical input, are sold across Nepal each autumn, and the valley also produces beans, buckwheat, walnuts and honey. In September and October the terraces turn gold and red and the orchards are heavy with fruit.
For travellers, Jumla is above all the trailhead for Rara. The classic trek leaves town past the Chandannath Temple, climbs to the meadow camp at Chere Chaur and crosses passes of 3,500 m and more towards Sinja and the lake. The Karnali Highway also now connects Jumla to Surkhet and Nepalgunj, so the town fills with jeeps and domestic tourists in spring and autumn. One night in Jumla before the trek is usual; two if you want to see Sinja by jeep.
What to see and do
- Chandannath Temple
The town's main temple, dedicated to Chandannath, a form of Vishnu brought, according to local tradition, from Kashmir. Its pagoda roof and the nearby Bhairabnath temple stand in the old core of the bazaar. Festivals bring crowds from villages across the district.
- Marshi red rice terraces
Jumli Marshi is grown on terraces up to about 3,050 m at Chhumchaur, a record altitude for rice. The Tila and Sinja valleys glow red-gold before harvest in September and October. Bags of the rice make a good, light souvenir.
- Apple country
Orchards line the valley and the slopes above town. Harvest runs from late August to October, when trucks leave daily along the Karnali Highway. Dried apple chips, juice and brandy are sold in the bazaar.
- Gateway to Rara
The 5–6 day walk from Jumla to Rara Lake is the classic way to reach Nepal's largest lake, through meadows, pine forest and Thakuri villages over passes up to about 3,580 m. Most groups spend one night in Jumla preparing.
- Sinja valley
Half a day by jeep or two days' walk from Jumla, Sinja was the summer capital of the Khasa Malla kingdom. The Kankasundari temple, old stone structures and inscriptions survive in a quiet valley of rice terraces, on the trekking route to Rara.
Experiences in Jumla
How to reach Jumla
Air
Small planes fly Nepalgunj–Jumla in about 40 minutes, usually in the morning, with occasional flights from Surkhet and Kathmandu. Seats are limited and weather cancels flights regularly, so keep a spare day. Baggage is generally 15 kg. Check current schedules before you travel.
Road
From Nepalgunj: ≈ 340 km · 12–14 h via Surkhet and the Karnali Highway, through Dailekh and Kalikot. The road is paved in parts but narrow and landslide-prone, especially June–September. Most visitors fly one way and drive the other only if they want to see the Karnali gorge.
On foot
Jumla is the start, not the end, of most treks: Rara Lake in 5–6 days, Dolpa via Kagmara La for experienced trekkers, and short walks to Sinja or the meadow at Chere Chaur.
Where to stay
Jumla has a few simple hotels and guesthouses along the main bazaar and near the airport, catering mostly to officials, traders and domestic tourists. Rooms are clean but basic, with attached bathrooms in the better places, hot water by gas geyser and Nepali and Indian dishes. Expect power cuts to be covered by solar or generator. For the night before a Rara trek we choose a hotel within walking distance of the airstrip and the start of the trail. There are no star-rated properties, so we confirm availability and current standard for each departure rather than naming a fixed hotel.
Tips from our trip managers
- Buy Jumli Marshi red rice and dried apples in the bazaar; both travel well.
- Walk to the Chandannath Temple in the early morning, when the bazaar is quiet.
- Use your Jumla night to check boots, sleeping bag and rain gear before the Rara trek.
- Carry enough cash for the trek; ATMs in Jumla are few and sometimes offline.
- If driving the Karnali Highway, avoid the monsoon months and travel only in daylight.
