Nepalgunj sits on the hot Terai plain in Banke district, close to the Indian town of Rupaidiha in Uttar Pradesh. It is the largest city in mid-western Nepal and the base for the small-plane network that serves the western hills: Twin Otters and Dorniers leave its runway at first light for Jumla, Talcha (Rara), Simikot, Dolpa and a dozen other mountain strips. Buddha Air and Shree Airlines run several jet and turboprop flights a day from Kathmandu, taking about an hour.
For Indian travellers the city is the easiest way into western Nepal. Lucknow is about 190 km away by road through Bahraich, and the Jamunaha–Rupaidiha crossing is open to Indian nationals without a visa. Many Kailash Mansarovar yatris now fly Lucknow or Delhi to Nepalgunj, take the morning flight to Simikot and continue by helicopter to Hilsa on the Tibet border. That makes Nepalgunj a pilgrim town for half the year, with hotels used to early starts and large groups.
The town itself is flat, warm and busy with cycle rickshaws and the last horse-drawn tongas in Nepal. The Bageshwari Temple, a Shakti peeth with a large tank, is the main sight. Mosques, Tharu villages on the outskirts and markets selling Lucknow cloth reflect a population mixed between hill, Madhesi, Muslim and Tharu families. Summer is fierce: May and early June often pass 40 °C, so most visitors come between October and March.
What to see and do
- Bageshwari Temple
The city's main shrine, dedicated to the goddess Bageshwari and counted by many devotees as a Shakti peeth. The temple stands beside a large pond with a Shiva statue at its centre, and it fills on Tuesdays, Saturdays and during Dashain. Allow 45 minutes; shoes off at the gate.
- Mountain flights at first light
Nepalgunj is the only practical air gateway to Simikot, Talcha and Jumla. Flights leave between 6 and 9 am to beat the afternoon wind in the hills. Watching Twin Otters load rice, gas cylinders and pilgrims at the small-plane apron shows how the far west is supplied.
- Rupaidiha border
The Jamunaha–Rupaidiha crossing is 6 km south of the centre. Indian nationals cross with an ID such as a passport or voter card; other nationalities need a Nepal visa and must use the immigration office. Lucknow, with direct flights to most Indian cities, is about 4–5 hours beyond.
- Banke National Park
Nepal's newer tiger park, declared in 2010, starts 30 km east along the highway and joins Bardia to form one large forest block. The 2026 census counted 51 tigers here. Visitor facilities are thin, so most travellers treat it as a drive-through on the way to Bardia.
- Tongas and the old bazaar
Horse-drawn tongas still carry passengers and goods around the older lanes near Dhamboji Chowk and the main bazaar. A short ride, a lassi and a plate of kebabs or sweets from a Muslim-run shop is the easiest way to see a town most visitors only use as a transit stop.
- Gateway to Bardia
Thakurdwara, the main entrance to Bardia National Park, is about 95 km away, 2.5–3 hours by car via Kohalpur and the East–West Highway. Many travellers land at Nepalgunj in the morning and are on a jungle walk the same afternoon.
Experiences in Nepalgunj
How to reach Nepalgunj
Air
Buddha Air and Shree Airlines fly Kathmandu–Nepalgunj several times a day, about 55–65 minutes. Morning flights connect with afternoon onward arrangements; for Simikot, Talcha or Jumla you normally overnight here because mountain flights leave early. Schedules change by season, so check current status before you travel.
Road
From Lucknow: ≈ 190 km · 4–5 h via Bahraich and the Rupaidiha border. From Kathmandu: ≈ 520 km · 12–14 h on the Prithvi and East–West highways, usually done as an overnight bus. From Bardia (Thakurdwara): ≈ 95 km · 2.5–3 h.
Rail
The nearest Indian railheads are Nanpara and Bahraich on the Indian side; most travellers find a car from Lucknow simpler. There is no railway in Nepal west of the Janakpur line, so the last stretch is always by road.
Where to stay
Most hotels sit within 10–15 minutes of the airport, which keeps early flights simple. Siddhartha Hotel, near Mahendra Stadium, is the town's best-known upscale option, with a pool that matters from April onward and staff used to Kailash groups leaving at 5 am. A handful of mid-range hotels near Birendra Chowk and the bus park suit budget travellers and drivers. Air-conditioning is worth paying for between April and September. There is little reason to stay more than one night unless a mountain flight is cancelled, which happens often enough that we build a spare night into Simikot and Rara itineraries.
Tips from our trip managers
- Book a hotel close to the airport if you have a 6 am flight to Simikot, Jumla or Talcha.
- Carry small Nepali rupee notes; Indian rupee notes above ₹100 are not legal tender in Nepal.
- Expect fog delays on morning flights in late December and January.
- From April to June keep sightseeing to early morning and late afternoon to avoid 40 °C heat.
- If a mountain flight is cancelled, stay flexible; operators usually rebook on the next morning's first flight.
