After the long descent from Larkya La, Bimthang appears as a flat green meadow at the foot of the Bimthang Glacier, with a line of lodges, stone walls and grazing horses. Open, level ground like this is a rare thing in these steep valleys. Above it the north and west faces of Manaslu rise in walls of ice, joined by Himlung Himal and Cheo Himal to the north and Phungi to the south. At sunset the light turns the whole range orange.
Bimthang lies in Manang district on the Dudh Khola, a tributary of the Marsyangdi, and is used by herders in summer and by trekking lodges in spring and autumn. The air at 3,590 m feels thick after the pass, and most trekkers sleep soundly here for the first time in days. A rest day is well worth adding if you have time.
From Bimthang the trail descends through rhododendron, pine and oak forest past Hampuk, Karche and Gho to Tilije and Dharapani on the Annapurna Circuit road. It is a long downhill day of 6 to 7 hours, with views back to Manaslu for the first hour. From Dharapani jeeps run to Besisahar and on to Kathmandu or Pokhara.
What to see and do
- Sunset on Manaslu
From the meadow Manaslu's west and north faces fill the eastern sky, glowing orange and pink at sunset. After a 9 hour pass day, sitting outside the lodge with a hot drink and this view is a highlight of the circuit.
- Ponkar Lake hike
A half-day hike up the Bimthang Glacier moraine leads to Ponkar Lake, a glacial lake at about 4,100 m below the peaks of the Manaslu massif. Few trekkers go, so the trail is quiet.
- Thick air and deep sleep
At 3,590 m, about 1,500 m below the pass, Bimthang is where your body finally gets a break. Appetite and sleep usually return, making it a good place for a rest day.
- Himlung and Cheo Himal
To the north the high peaks of the Nar Phu and Tibet border, including Himlung Himal (7,126 m) and Cheo Himal, are visible from the upper meadow and the moraine behind the lodges.
- Forest descent to Dharapani
Below Bimthang the trail plunges into dense rhododendron, pine and oak forest, with streams and waterfalls. In April the rhododendrons flower, and in autumn the forest floor turns gold.
Experiences in Bimthang
How to reach Bimthang
On foot
From Dharamsala, cross Larkya La and descend to Bimthang in 8 to 10 hours. From Bimthang to Dharapani is 6 to 7 hours and about 20 km downhill through Hampuk, Karche, Gho and Tilije.
Road
A jeep track now runs up from Dharapani towards Tilije and Gho; in the dry season some trekkers take a jeep from there and skip the last 2 to 3 hours of walking. From Dharapani jeeps reach Besisahar in about 3 to 4 hours and Kathmandu in 9 to 10 hours. Check current status before you travel.
Helicopter
Helicopters can land on the Bimthang meadow for rescues or private charters in good weather. A flight to Kathmandu takes about 50 to 60 minutes, and to Pokhara about 35 to 40 minutes.
Where to stay
Bimthang has a short row of teahouses on the meadow, built of stone and timber with twin rooms, a stove-heated dining room and shared toilets. After Dharamsala they feel comfortable, and most offer hot showers on sunny days and charging for a fee. Names that appear on recent itineraries include Mountain Ponkar Cottage and Himalayan Guest House, though, as everywhere on the circuit, we reconfirm each season. Rooms facing east give a view of Manaslu at dawn. In October beds fill quickly on days when many groups cross the pass, so we reserve ahead.
Tips from our trip managers
- Celebrate the pass with a hot meal and early night; tomorrow is a long descent that is hard on the knees.
- If you have a spare day, spend it here for Ponkar Lake rather than in Dharapani.
- Use trekking poles on the descent to Gho and Tilije; the trail is steep and rooty in places.
- Watch for the Annapurna side permit check at Dharapani; keep your conservation area permits ready.
- Pay for any jeep from Tilije or Dharapani in cash and agree the price before setting off.
