Leave your hotel about 45 minutes before sunrise with a torch. The trail starts at the south-west end of the bazaar, passes the school and climbs steadily up a stone path through scrub and pine. It is short, about 30–40 minutes for most people, with a height gain of roughly 150–200 m. At the top, Thani Mai is a modest hilltop shrine of the mother goddess, with a few benches and prayer bells and an open view in every direction.
From here the Himalaya stretches along the northern skyline: Dhaulagiri, the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhre to the north-west, Lamjung Himal, Manaslu and Himalchuli straight ahead, and on very clear mornings Ganesh Himal and Langtang to the east. Below, the Marsyangdi and Seti valleys usually lie under a sea of morning cloud, with Bandipur's tiled roofs on the ridge in front of you. It is a favourite of photographers, who bring a telephoto lens for the peaks and a wide lens for the town below.
After the sun is up, return the same way for breakfast, or continue along the ridge towards the Khadga Devi temple. In March the hillside is covered with rhododendron and wild flowers. Avoid the climb in heavy rain, as the steps get slippery, and note that in the monsoon the view is usually lost in cloud. Local residents use the trail for morning exercise, so you will rarely be alone, and almost everyone who reaches the top rings the temple bell.
Good for
- Couples
- Photographers
- Solo
- Families
Questions travellers ask
How long is the walk to Thani Mai?
About 30–40 minutes up from the bazaar for most adults, gaining roughly 150–200 m on stone steps and a dirt path, and 20–25 minutes back down. Children of about six and over manage it well. Allow two hours in total including time at the top for sunrise and photos.
Which mountains are visible from Bandipur?
On a clear morning you can see Dhaulagiri, Annapurna I and II, Machhapuchhre, Lamjung Himal, Manaslu, Himalchuli and Ganesh Himal, and sometimes Langtang far to the east. The view is clearest from October to February. From June to September cloud usually hides the peaks.
Is it safe to walk to Thani Mai in the dark?
Yes, the trail is short, well used and close to town, and Bandipur is a safe, quiet place. Carry a torch or head lamp, wear shoes with grip and go in a small group. Your hotel can point you to the start of the path the evening before.
