The Tsum Valley branches east from the Budhi Gandaki at Ekle Bhatti and climbs along the Siyar Khola towards the Tibet border. Tibetan Buddhists consider it a beyul, a hidden valley blessed by Guru Rinpoche as a refuge, and the great yogi Milarepa is said to have meditated in caves here. The valley was closed to foreigners until 2008, and even now it sees only a fraction of the trekkers on the Manaslu Circuit. Its people, the Tsumba, speak their own Tibetan language and live much as their grandparents did.
The lower valley, from Lokpa (about 2,240 m) to Chumling (about 2,386 m), is forested and steep. Above the Rainjam bridge it opens into the upper Tsum, a broad, dry valley of barley fields, stone villages and long mani walls. Chhokangparo, at about 3,031 m, is the main settlement, with views of Ganesh Himal and Himal Chuli. Further up are Nile and Chhule, facing each other across the river, and finally Mu Gompa at about 3,700 m, the largest monastery in the valley.
Tsum is known for its commitment to non-violence: since the early twentieth century the valley has followed a local pledge not to hunt, trap or slaughter animals, and you will not find meat butchered here. Nuns at Rachen Gompa and Gumba Lungdang, monks at Mu Gompa and families in the villages keep a calendar of festivals including Lhosar and the Dhachyang horse festival. Most trekkers spend 7 to 9 days in the valley, alone or combined with the Manaslu Circuit.
What to see and do
- Mu Gompa near the Tibet border
The largest monastery in the valley stands at about 3,700 m on a bare hillside a short walk from the border. Monks live and study here, and the view down the upper Tsum and up to the border passes is wide and wild.
- Rachen Gompa nunnery
A large nunnery near Ngakyu, at about 3,240 m, home to a community of nuns. The prayer hall holds fine murals, and visitors are welcome to watch prayers quietly.
- Milarepa's cave
Piren Phu, the cave where Milarepa is said to have meditated, lies above the trail between Chhokangparo and the upper valley. Pilgrims leave butter lamps and offerings, and a small gompa stands at the entrance.
- Chhokangparo and Ganesh Himal
The main village of the upper Tsum sits on a terrace at about 3,031 m with views south to Ganesh Himal and Himal Chuli. It is the natural base for exploring the valley and acclimatising.
- Gumba Lungdang
A nunnery set high on a ridge at about 3,200 m, reached on a side trip from Dumje. It looks straight at the Ganesh Himal glaciers, and the nuns' evening puja is a quiet, moving experience.
- A valley without slaughter
Tsum follows a long-standing local pledge against hunting and killing animals. It shapes the food, the farming and the relationship between people and wildlife, including blue sheep that graze close to villages.
Experiences in Tsum Valley
How to reach Tsum Valley
Road
Jeep from Kathmandu to Machha Khola (about 160 km, 8 to 9 hours) via Dhading Besi and Arughat. In the dry season jeeps may reach Jagat. There is no road into the Tsum Valley itself; check current status before you travel.
On foot
From Machha Khola walk two days via Jagat and Philim to Ekle Bhatti, then turn east up the Siyar Khola to Lokpa and Chumling, about 6 hours. From Chumling it is 5 to 6 hours to Chhokangparo and another 1 to 2 days to Mu Gompa.
Helicopter
Charter helicopters can fly from Kathmandu to the upper Tsum in about 50 to 60 minutes in good weather, mainly for rescues and private trips. Landings need the Tsum Valley restricted area permit for foreign passengers and depend on weather and payload.
Where to stay
Tsum has simple family-run teahouses in Lokpa, Chumling, Chhokangparo, Nile and Chhule, plus guest rooms at Rachen Gompa and Mu Gompa run by the monastic communities. Rooms are basic twin rooms with shared toilets, and dining is in the family kitchen around a stove, which is part of the charm. Hot showers are limited and power comes from small solar or hydro systems. Menus are vegetarian because of the valley's non-violence pledge. Because there are few beds in the upper valley, we book ahead for October and arrange camping as back-up for groups.
Tips from our trip managers
- Get the separate Tsum Valley restricted area permit as well as the Manaslu permits; your agency arranges both.
- Respect the valley's non-violence pledge: do not bring meat into Tsum and do not harm any animal, including insects in lodges.
- Spend two nights at Chhokangparo or Nile before going up to Mu Gompa at about 3,700 m.
- Carry small notes for monastery donations and for staying in gompa guest rooms.
- Expect simpler lodges than on the Manaslu Circuit and bring a warm sleeping bag rated to −10 °C or lower.
